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Clay Bar

 

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-36-64-oz-clay-bar.aspx

 

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Adam's Fine Grade Clay Bar is incredibly safe, and effective at removing surface contamination. Even new vehicles need Clay! Our new Blue Bar is the finest and safest detailing clay for your vehicle’s finish. It removes surface contamination safely and easily without skid or swirl marks. Each Clay Jar contains one (1) 6.4 oz Clay Bar.

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Hi guys, just one question...

 

Do I need to wash my car after (or during) the claying session? Or let me rephrase that...what do I need to do if I want to put revive polish and buttery wax after I wax?

 

Wash the vehicle. Then detail spray and clay bar.

Leave the residue and get the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) going and then hit it with the Revive Polish (RP). I do not wipe/wash between the SHR and RP. Wipe the surface clean (I use DS) and hit it with the Buttery Wax.

 

That works for me. I believe there are people that wash in between some of the applications, but I've not done that.

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Can clay bars damage paint? I was showing my friend how to use his new clay bar on his black civic. I did an area on the trunk then he did an area everything was fine; I even showed him the plastic bag test. Then he showed me this area under his driver side window that looked like some type of stain that he couldn't get off with scratch remover, cleaning, wax ect. I took the clay bar to it lightly as I showed him on the trunk, after wards I felt the area and it was smooth now but the mark remained. I went over it for a second pass pretty hard. It took the mark out of his paint but now his paint looks scuffed up and cloudy. There was no paint on the clay bar. What happened, did I scuff the clear with the clay? I've taken clay to my black mustang fairly aggressively and nothing like this ever happened. How can I fix it? I feel bad.:(

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Devin, you can certainly create some marring while claying. Especially if you dont use enough lube (DS). I think the pros will say - and I believe it - that claying should be part of an overall larger corrective process in which other measure will be taken to remove the marring...for example, I only clay when I know that I will follow with Swirl & Haze remover, polish, etc....you have a PC? maybe its even something you can remove by hand with a MF applicator and Swirl & Haze remover...

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Rich, that is what I thought at first. I thought I was removing wax that was covering up the marring from when he used scratch remover on it. But the more I think about it I guess I marred it. I've never had that problem with my car but I've never used this clay before. He is planning on having his car buffed out next week because the last place he went to left holograms on his car. So he can get it taken out then. Just a stupid mistake on my part. I do have a PC that I just got last week along with Adam's polishes that I haven’t used yet. I don’t feel confident taking it to his car right now. I need to get some practice in first. I didn't know that claying caused marring like that, I'll have to be more careful from now on.

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Did you follow up with any product? Buttery Wax? Revive? S&H ? I'm glad he's not mad at you and isn't making you pay to fix it. Sounds like a good friend.

 

No just the DS. Like I said he is taking the car in to have some other stuff buffed out so he didnt mind toomuch the stuff I removed looked worse than how it looks now. I didn't want to try the S&H b/c I've never used it before and didn't want to risk doing further damage. We were going to put some wax over it but I didnt bring mine and it was getting cold. I do feel bad for what I did though, never had something like that happen before. Would you use the S&H followed by the FMP and wax if you were fixing it? Also I think it would have to be done by hand it's on some tight curves.

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MY friend applied a little bit of cheap wax today and he said that did the trick. I still haven't seen it yet but I want to see what it looks like with the wax on and then see what his car looks like after everything is buffed out. Thanks again everyone for all the info.:2thumbs:

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I have a question. I detailed my brother's f-150 yesterday, started by using the foam gun(which I must have not diluted enough at first because it was hardly foaming and then re-read the forum and noticed my mistake) washed, dried, clayed(which is where the problem is), a little SHR, FMP, MSW. Anyways the clay while working with it even for a brief amount of time was sticking to me and making hard to work with. Everytime I would knead it I would first have to peel it away from my hand little by little and then pick clumps away from my skin. Any reason as to why this was happening?

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I have a question. I detailed my brother's f-150 yesterday, started by using the foam gun(which I must have not diluted enough at first because it was hardly foaming and then re-read the forum and noticed my mistake) washed, dried, clayed(which is where the problem is), a little SHR, FMP, MSW. Anyways the clay while working with it even for a brief amount of time was sticking to me and making hard to work with. Everytime I would knead it I would first have to peel it away from my hand little by little and then pick clumps away from my skin. Any reason as to why this was happening?

 

Can you post a picture of the clay ?

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"washed, dried, clayed........"

Did you use detail spray while you were using the clay bar? You weren't using it dry were you? If you were, there's your mistake. Gotta keep it moist.

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I used detail spray while I worked don't worry and I knew to spray a little on my hand I read that somewhere. I am sure I could take a picture now after the fact because its almost as if as soon as I touch it it sticks to me. The clay at first was a slightly used piece but then when it started happening I tossed that piece cleaned up my hands sprayed some detail spray on my hands and tore a new piece and went back to work...same thing happened so I have no clue what may have happened.

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I used detail spray while I worked don't worry and I knew to spray a little on my hand I read that somewhere. I am sure I could take a picture now after the fact because its almost as if as soon as I touch it it sticks to me. The clay at first was a slightly used piece but then when it started happening I tossed that piece cleaned up my hands sprayed some detail spray on my hands and tore a new piece and went back to work...same thing happened so I have no clue what may have happened.

 

Ya, that doesn't sound right; I can kneed it straight out of the tub dry and it doesn't stick to my hands. It's tacky, and the more I kneed it the sticker it gets but it never ends up coming apart on my hands. Maybe you have very dry hands, or I guess it's possible you just got some bad clay. :)

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Hello Vittorio! Thanks for you loyalty and many orders, and I apologize that this clay is difficult to work with.

 

This is the first instance of this happening, so, I'm of the belief you have a defective clay bar.

 

We'll get you a replacement bar immediately, and an extra bottle of Detail Spray for your hassles.

 

Thanks very much Vittorio, and again, I apologize for the hassles working with the clay bar.

 

-Adam:thumbsup:

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I have read about several brands of clay and their reference to different grades of abrasiveness (sp) . Can someone please clear that up for me ?

The different grades refer to : Fine, Fine-Medium, Medium to Heavy, & Detailer's Clay. Generally, off the shelf clay you get at an auto store will be kinda crappy and won't grab much.

 

Most clay bars (if not all...?) sold in the U.S. even come from the same manufacturer because the bum who patented it sues anybody that tries to come out with their own - so you get what he gives you - It's a hit-or-miss thing: a brand of clay you like one month could be completely different the next time you buy it. Any effort to standardize or improve the clay have been met with lawsuits.

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