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? 4 black car owners that used a PC


MitsukiGT

Question

I did a test spot on my black sierra today witht he PC.

 

First I started with orange pad + SHR, followed by white + FMP.

 

Results looked really good except in the sunlight there are lots of tiny scratches from the pads. These scratches I speak of are only seen in the sunlight, can't see them with halogens.

 

So I'm thinking the scratches might be swirls not removed. So next on the same spot I went with the Yellow pad + SHR, then orange pad + shr, then white + FMP. I didn't see any difference, those tiny scratched are still there.

 

I remember somone telling me about the PC and black cars, but for the life of me I can't locate that thread.

 

So what is the trick to making this paint flawless in the sunlight? Work the white pad forever?

 

Just for reference you can see it remove the swirls\scratches, but leaves tiny scratches that don't match up to where swirls were. In the pictures you can't see the leftovers that I speak of, but they are there in the sunlight.

 

(orange spots are not on paint, the camera lense is dirty)

 

before

3932164497_53c8089a3a_b.jpg

 

after

3932164237_20eaa9aedd_b.jpg

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Thanks for the replies.

 

What I am talking about I just can't get the camera to focus on (I do remove all swirls I seen before), I guess the best I can describe it would be to take the orange pad to a spot on your finish that is already swirl free. Now wipe it off. You can see all the pad swirls it left. That is what I am trying to remove. These swirls are really small and tight together, they are definetly from the pad and weren't there before.

 

As far as contaminants, it is possible I guess. Not in the pads though as I have been washing them every night or sooner if they get gunked up. I am working on the truck in a shaded area outside as it only has about 2 inches cleanance in the garage, the paint I worked was cool to the touch and no sun on it. I had to move the truck into the sun to see what I missed.

 

My very last attempt I think I might have gotten close. Sun was going down and I didn't get to do my last pass. The orange pad's velcro backing ripped off and stuck to the PC backplate and the pad went flying. Now it barely sticks to the plate so I had to move onto the white pad. Since the sun was almost gone I can't say for sure, but that last attempt looks to be 80% or so, which looked pretty good. But I did an area I previously worked before. So I think I am getting closer.

 

Tomorrow I should have my latest order and luckily I ordered replacement pads. So to eliminate all possible error I'll use them and I'll park the truck half way in the garage to cut down on any dust that might get blown on the paint.

 

Just out of curiouslity I am going to work an area on my TB with the same process and see if I see these swirles, it is red, so I am wondering if my method has been flawed this whole time or the G8 I had great success with just has a real soft clearcoat. If I see swirls on the red paint I'll know it is my process that is flawed.

 

ANd I want to make it clear I was never once was saying anything bad about the product, I'm sorry if it sounded that way. Obviously with any product if used incorectly can't perform as advertised. And all I am trying to do is use it properly. If you feel this thread is bashing your product you can remove it and I'll understand. Either way I like the product and will continue to buy more.

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It could be but from the picture below it just looks like marring that should come out with the White Pad / FMP and the PC set on 5. The GM trucks seem to have a much harder clear than a G8, chips real easy too :(, you really need to take your time and move the PC slow.

 

:iagree:Mitsuki, this is a good plan, please try it. I've given my cell and email to you, yet my phone has not rang. I've asked your name several times, with no reply. Looked up your email in our order system, but nothing was found. :confused:

 

If you REALLY need help, how come you won't call or email me? I'm a good guy to talk with when it comes to getting paint perfect! Try me!:hi:

 

I'd try what C6Bill has suggested above. That should do the trick. Seeing what's left behind after the Orange Pad should be an impossibility, as you don't remove the residue until after you would use the White Pad.

 

If you try Bill's suggested method, and don't accomplish the goal, let's move forward with the refund.

 

I see in your title, "Skilled Detailer," is listed. In your detailing experience, have you used products/ pads that provide better results?

 

Thanks, and I again apologize your experience was not excellent with our goods.

 

-Adam

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No offense, but I really don't want to resort to bugging people on the phone. PLus I feel stupid enough as it is that I would need to call someone.

 

As for skilled detailer, I didn't do that, nor do I know how to change it. In one of my threads I think I said I never so much as waxed a car before. Maybe it was talking to Dylan in another forum. So I am a complete noob. I knew nothing about the process or which procuts to use before talking with Dylan. I only used touchless car washes before detailing my G8, so literally NO experiense ever. I guess this is why I might be asking some questions that sound stupid as they are common knowledge to you guys.

 

As for email, I just checked and it is still there. Maybe because I use a different email for the forum\store? **I just seen where to change skilled detailer** I updated it now.

 

Maybe you are getting the wrong idea here, I never used any other products, ever, so I have no basis for comparison. And not saying something else is better. I'm not bashing your products. Just trying to get information on the process.

 

Again I don't need a refund. Please just delete this thread, I did't mean to upset anyone. You have great products, and have a great group of people working for you. I'm just too stupid to use them. I'll continue to experiment on my own and not bug you guys anymore.

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Okay now the problem I see with working something in thirty minutes is that you will start to dry buff the paint, unless you mean working in the product a bunch of times.

 

Have you tried Junkman's slow cut method? I tried it and had great luck with it. Let me try and help you though by explaining it in words.

 

You will want to place 3 dots on the pad and give it a spritz of DS. Then slowly move the product around @ 2-3 (a couple of passes) just to get even coverage then move it up to level 5-6 and do the checkerboard pattern while applying even pressure. Don't be afraid to run it at level 6 either. Wait until the product has flashed (turned clear). I will then apply some DS and reactivate the product and work it until it flashes. Then wipe down your area with a high quality MF with some DS and check your work. While the FMP will indeed remove swirls I do not move onto the FMP until my paint is pretty much devoid of swirls. I use the FMP to ramp up reflection.

 

Oh and what are the temp/humidity like while you are doing this? It should not take too long for product to flash.

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Weather has been crappy here last 2 days so I haven't got to try anything yet.

 

I did however have plenty of time to re-watch all the videos.

 

In Junkman's video for the slowcut which you guys recommended I watch (I already did before) he clearly states he wipes the product of after each step, so after he is done with SHR, he wipes it off, then goes to FMP, then wipes it off.

 

In Adam's video he does not wipe anything off and tells you not to. In a reply by Adam he even said it is impossible to check the finish after the orange pad because you arn't supposed to wipe off the SHR before FMP.

 

So which is it? Both videos make it clear to do opposite things.

 

When the weather gets better I plan to use my new pads and slowcut the truck. After the final pass of the orange pad in the slowcut process in that video Junkman shows the finish. Sure it looks allot better but you can still see allot of stuff. I see similar things in the areas I worked on my truck. Now I haven't slow cut it yet, so that might yeild different results.

 

Thanks

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You know, there is the possibility that the scratches are too deep to be polished out with a orbital polisher. That is always a possibility. On the other hand, better to have some slightly deep scratches than to go at it with a rotary and end up with no paint instead. Give me scratches over no paint any day.

 

 

:burnout:

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Thanks, but I'd still like to know which method is correct. Do I wipe the SHR off after using orange pad as in your video? Or do I leave it like Adam does in his video?

 

Thanks for your time

 

You follow the complete method of the person you're following. If you're doing it Adam's way, do it EXACTLY the way Adam does it in his video. You don't mix up techniques. We have reason that we do things the way we do but you will notice that we both always end up in the land of shine. There's a method to our madness. Pick a method and stay with it. Flipping back and forth has gotten you no where.

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LOL, thanks, but I said I have watched the videos like 3 times in this thread. And I just said I watched them again over the last 2 days.

 

I did however have plenty of time to re-watch all the videos.

 

 

What role does humidity play? It has been very humid the last 3 days here and today look to be no different. I anticipate overcast again and very humid.

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keep us posted mate really interesting the track your on, I have 2 black cars and the products bring up a finish I have never had before with others, really sorry you are having so much trouble, if I wasn't so far away I would come over to your joint and help you figure it out.

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keep us posted mate really interesting the track your on, I have 2 black cars and the products bring up a finish I have never had before with others, really sorry you are having so much trouble, if I wasn't so far away I would come over to your joint and help you figure it out.

 

Whew! That would be a little bit of a commute from your porch!

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keep us posted mate really interesting the track your on, I have 2 black cars and the products bring up a finish I have never had before with others, really sorry you are having so much trouble, if I wasn't so far away I would come over to your joint and help you figure it out.

 

Appreciate the offer. For some reason I really think the new pads will be my answer.

 

I WILL get my truck 99%......just wait and see:rockon:

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Only got about an hour of daylight to work today. I started with my new pads and on a completely new area. I wanted to see what it would take to do a untouched area carefully following the slowcut method. That is why I choose a new area.

 

Well, like a dummy, I didn't take a before shot. I was too excited to start. So I had to take a before shot of an area I haven't touched yet. (I didn't wipe this area down, still water and pad dust all over it)

 

3952069004_ea0d793e2c_b.jpg

 

After following the slowcut method as close as I could. Still not the results I am after.

 

3952068520_da29bcccdb_b.jpg

 

Not sure where to go from there, I went ahead and then did Adam's method as close as I could. The next 2 pictures are from his method.

 

3952068698_c2f9c5cbfd_b.jpg

3952068836_80e32657a6_b.jpg

 

Results here are getting real close to what I expect. However no sun today so I can't say for sure. What do you guys think? In the picture I am pretty happy if it looks like this in the sun.

 

What worries me is the following. I snapped this picture of an area I previously worked, but could see the pad mark in the sun.

 

3951309913_870d095c03_b.jpg

 

Do you guys think my new results are better than the old ones from the picture? To my eye my new results are better. Or am I just exhausted? I think the old work looks like after the slow cut method in my previous shots.

 

I'm almost thinking the key here was I used too much pressure and having new pads. My new white pad make the other "clean" pad look filthy.

 

Still I have 1 question that is really hard to translate from watching video. When you are working the product, does it stay moist after you spread it? For me I can't hardly do 1 checker board pattern before it feels dry to the touch. Then on the next pass it almost looks like no product is left at all on the paint. Is that right? After that I then spray the pad and get another 1-2 passes before it looks to be gone again.

 

Thanks for putting up with me and my stupid questions, I do really appreciate it.

Edited by MitsukiGT
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From your last comments you might be using too much pressure and possibly moving the PC a little slow across the surface. Any way you can take a video of your technique ?

 

But I think you are starting to get excellent results :thumbsup:

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Being a black car owner myself you have better results than I would ever expect. I know it is under halogens and not direct sun light. Keep in mind that from the factory there are many flaws under the clear. Unless you are willing to pay 10K for a paint job to have 95% flawless paint be very happy with what you have achieved. You are on the right track. Takes lots of practice......

Congrats,

Gary

 

PS.. Very interesting post. But I also followed Dylans advice a long time ago that perfection is not achievable. Get the best results you can. Saved my sanity as I was more than OCD and spent a good junk of coin and fustration to try.

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Two things come to mind after reading your post. One, you can't use a brand new pad to do the slow cut technique because there is not enough product on the pad. You have to use the pad for a bit first before you begin the slow cut.

 

Secondly, I would also like to see a video of you in action. Unlike Bill, I think you're moving too fast. You also seem to not understand that the orange pad beats up the paint and leaves the small circles in the paint that you are complaining about (especially when you use too much presure). That's why you follow SHR and the orange pad with FMP and the white pad. Your white pad should still be like new because you don't apply that much pressure when using it. It seems that you are doing just the opposite.

 

Make a video. I want to see what you're doing because most people I have to show this to personally were doing it wrong to begin with. Also, if this is your daily driver, I wouldn't be going for perfect either. You'd loose your hair trying to do so.

 

Ask Bill. :D

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