Minimum prep for Advanced Graphene spray coating

[rrmccabe]

Just bought a new 2024 LTZ with the Radiant Red Tintcoat.  Out of all the coatings I have used, I have really liked the Advanced Graphene spray coating the best.  I am planning on coating the paint but really don't want to do my normal pain correction, etc.  I am afraid if i made it any shinier it would show GMs orange peel even more

 

Thinking about just strip washing it, dousing it down with Iron remover a couple times and then good wipe down with IPA. Part of me wants to clay it but not without following up with the Rupes.

 

Have never had the opportunity to coat a new vehicle so thought I would run it by you guys.

 

Rich

[falcaineer]

Remember, true shine comes from proper paint correction, the rest is enhancement and protection. If you can live with the overall looks, go for it. Although I would also consider claying it.

[rrmccabe]

I am happy with the shine.  I could go down the rabbit hole with this thing as I feel buffing is a waste without sanding it to remove some orange peel. I just cant bring myself to do that. So I am more after the protection.  I hate to clay and not polish after but maybe a fine clay would be OK.  Chris as always appreciate your response.

 

Rich

[RayS]

Hi Rich,
I've done my share of GM/Chevy red vehicles right from the factory and that were sitting on dealer lots.  Most only required minimal correction, unless the dealer ran it through a bunch of automatic car washes and gave it the dealer enhancement of swirls.

 

I have been been able to use the follow to prep the vehicle:

Strip wash
Iron remover

baggy test for whether or not you need to clay, all some or none. You may need to clay the fenders behind the tires and and maybe the front of the hood and roof above the windshield.  The baggy test will show you the areas and usually the fine grade clay will do and it limits the level of further correction.

You may also find some places that might need some Revive Hand Polish with an Orange hand pad and it is possible you may need to machine correct some areas.  A worn out white pad with One Step, not the wool pad, can provide a mix in between Compound and Polish for those "do I or don't I" need to correct this area.

Once you have completed the steps above, then get a good white pad and the polish with plenty of detail spray and go over the entire truck.  You should be able to see any areas that need additional work and finally hit it with Surface Prep and the coating.

 

Good luck and welcome to the Red Truck family.

 

[rrmccabe]

Thanks for the advice.  I have went over it with my detailing light and I dont see any damage.  Just not the smoothest paint job I have seen     Just need to get it protected.

Eventually, I might consider coating the rims with something different.  I just have no had any success with that in Iowa winters. I don't think it really helped at all.

[rrmccabe]

@RayS

 

Ray, you said you have done a lot of these GM red. I assume you are referring to tint coat red?

 

I would like to use compound on the doors and try to buff about 50% of the orange peel out. I dont even know if you call it orange peel as its in more vertical pattern.

 

Researching the process there is no clear on top. The finish is just the red tinted clear.  I am concerned about color changing as I buff off some tint.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

[RayS]

@rrmccabe Hi Rich, 

If I remember correctly, the Tint Coat started on some vehicles around 2014 and pretty much the entire line was was changed by about 2019.  The way I understood it the switch was according to when the paint booths were updated.  I much prefer paint with a clear coat to get the best look, but after doing a bunch of vehicles with the tint coat, I've gotten a pretty good handle on it.  My first experience with a new vehicle and the tint coat was my 2017 Colorado and I admit I was confused with what to do.  The other vehicles I had at the time were a Monte Carlo, Malibu, Cruze and old S-10, plus the 98 Mustang which was a different leaque. 

 

The orange peel is almost impossible to completely get rid of I notice it mostly on the doors, but have never been able to figure out why.  You can most certainly reduce the visibility with doing a clay, a 2-3 pass compound and then polish, which I usually do 3 passes with which pretty much hides it with the shine.  Overall, I think the Denali's tend to have more care taken with the paint, but then again the premium price of a Denali should have more care.  For the daily drivers, If you cannot see it five feet away, then it doesn't exist and I very much doubt anyone other than you or another detailer will be able to see it 5 feet away once you've made it shine.

 

I also see a difference with the factory, Wentzville, MO does the Colorado and Canyon and seems to have a very good paint booth.  The Terrain is made in Ontario and I can tell the difference between the two, then with the Sierra and Silverado, they are made in in a couple of different plants and they seem to vary from truck to truck.  The last one I did was a HD and it had very little orange peel and came out looking great, the one before was a LT and that took at lot more work. Of course, on the LT it was pretty obvious that the deal also helped by running it through an automatic car wash or two.

If you want to see a huge different in paint, look at a 2023 Acadia compared to the 2024 Acadia. The 2023 was made in the Spring Hill plant in, TN and the 2024 is made in Lansing, Mi.  I much prefer the paint on the 2024 Acadia compared to the 2023.  I do believe we are replacing the wife's 2019 Red Terrain Denali with a 2024 Red Acadia Denali.  I have an aunt and sister-in-law with 2023 Acadia's and another sister-in-law with a 2022 Tahoe that's dark blue and a pain to do and finally one with a Red Traverse that is about 3 years old.  

I hope that helps with your effort, if not make a road trip to South Carolina and we'll do the truck together.

[rrmccabe]

Wow Ray that is an impressive amount of info.

I watched a few body shop videos on painting Radiant Red Tintcoat and the correct refinish process is the base, tintcoat and the clear coat. I think that caused a lot of confusion and led a lot of people to believe that GM cleared over the tint coat.  But I ran across a post from a guy that was an engineering tech for the company that provided GM paint booth "kitchen" and he said for sure there is not a 3rd coat of just clear.

 

I am glad you understand what I am referring to with the vertical texture/orange peel.  Its a daily driver and I am looking for the best possible look without compromising the longevity of the clear "by much".    It does not have to be perfect, but just want it to be the best it can be with a little work without sacrificing much clear. I realize the smart thing to do is just clay, polish and coat it.  But I want a little better than that.

 

Thank you.  Your detailed post is a big help.

 

Rich

[RayS]

2 minutes ago, rrmccabe said:

Your detailed post is a big help.

You are most certainly welcome.  I'm glad the info helped, I was fortunate enough to have an expert on the GM side help me and I'm always willing to pass on what I've learned, espcially if it is a red vehicle.