Team Adam's Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 ArmyAcadia09, Junior, Captain Slow and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junior Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 So Doc no more priming the pad with a shot of DS? Schell21 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marquez93 Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Great video. But I've seen in other people's videos that they spread the polish quickly over the whole section and then slowly start to work it, but you don't seem to do this. Any recommendation one way or the other? It seems like spreading it would give you a consistent amount of polish over the whole panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 So what am I doing wrong. I follow the same process and I end up with real tight swirls if that makes sense. The long swirls are gone but the paint definitely doesn't look like glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Adam's Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Pictures pictures pictures! Capture the issue and post it here. Could be anything - your pad/polish/machine combo isn't powerful enough to remove 100% of the damage you may need to adjust your speed/technique you may need to get creative with pad choice Virtually impossible to say without seeing what you're seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Adam's Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Great video. But I've seen in other people's videos that they spread the polish quickly over the whole section and then slowly start to work it, but you don't seem to do this. Any recommendation one way or the other? It seems like spreading it would give you a consistent amount of polish over the whole panel. You certainly can, but on a test section of only 2x2 I don't feel it necessary as you've haven't begun any significant breakdown of the polish in the initial strokes. Additionally, fast/jerky/rushed initial movements before the pad has been more completely saturated with polish can introduce marring. 2quikta 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I'll try to get some pictures up. Very difficult to catch in camera with the glare from light and my ugly mug reflection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 So what am I doing wrong. I follow the same process and I end up with real tight swirls if that makes sense. The long swirls are gone but the paint definitely doesn't look like glass. Million additional questions besides Dylan's: -What pad/polish combo are you using -What machine are you using -What size pad are you using -How many section passes did you make -What speed are you making your section pass on In addition to Dylan's questions and needing to see pictures, ton of variables here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 So I am using a pic with 6 inch pads. I have tried both the foam and micro orange with swirl and haze remover followed up with the fine machine polish and white pad. I ran the speeds anywhere from 4-5 k. Just can't seem to get it perfect. Granted I was successful at getting some of the longer scratches from machine washing out. Now I'm just stuck with this micro swirls that I will eventually get a picture of for you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 If they are micro swirls do another pass with the white foam pad and the fine machine polish. Don't go back to the swirl and haze remover if you have removed most of the defects out and are only left with super fine swirls as its more aggressive. Again we are also comparing a video Dylan did with the new pads and newer 2-step polishes. You are using a slightly outdated 3 step formula as well, but similar principles apply. Keep in mind there is a limit to the amount of correction you will get with a PC and the largest pads (7") Adams offers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 That's why I'm in the market for one of the new kits. Flex or rupes 15. Leaning towards the rupes along with the new pad system and updated chemicals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 ^I would be sure your technique on your existing machine is sound prior to investing in new pad, chemical, and machine. Not sure if this is your first correction, or just first time having a problem on a correction. The prior 3-step system was redundant in that it had an extra step/pad to it but you should be able to get similar results as the current system, it just will take longer. Having the newest stuff is great, no doubt, and I'd encourage you to give Adam's more business, but as an analogy, if you just got your motorcycle license and rode for a month on a beater bike you couldn't go and buy an S1000RR and call yourself a proficient sportbike rider. Would like to see what you're having trouble getting out, and the paint condition. Are you working on black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Well I think my technique is good. I had previously worked in a body shop and did the wet sand and rotary buff with no issues. I have done numerous other vehicles with my pc with excellent results. This new car has proven to be a bear. It's black. I will continue to try for photos. My iPhone isn't exactly the best. Maybe my issue is time spent. For example I worked on my front clip for over an hour with so so results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBurninator Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Dylan, good pointing out the difference with how to sit the pad with a rotary vs a DA style tool. You should have also touched on how fast you are moving across paint with a rotary vs a DA. I see way too many people move across a panel too quickly with a DA thinking it is like a rotary. Oh and Audi Boulder's parts guy is happy to have his loaner car back Especially with perfect paint now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvsBest Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 First, I can't say that I have years and years of experience but I am at a point where I have a very good understanding of the machines/process and rationale behind the paint correcting process. I don't need to watch any more videos to get my paint to perfection. Having said that, I always always always watch the new videos when they come out and I always learn something on every single one of them. To the newcomers out there that are just starting, as someone else already said, "watch the videos over and over and over again". This is probably the best advice you will ever get. ledger64 and Feets31 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Well if watching the video question is referred this way I will say I have. I follow the technique along with the timing. Just don't get what I see is perfect. I think equipment may be the issue here. When you watch the video there are one two three passes and boom perfection. I don't get that after a whole lot more time and pad speed trials Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvsBest Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) My own issues when the PC was my primary machine were: 1) Pads were too big (I downgraded to 5in backing plate and 5.5in pads) 2) I was almost using a Flex speed of movement, I had to slow way down to about 10 sec to go across 2 feet. Yes it took forever but I didn't have to do 10 passes to get it right. Maybe 2 or 3 is usually what was required. With the PC is also entirely possible that the job is just too much for the machine (I'm thinking 10 year old vehicle that has never been polished...). You should at least get 90% right with the PC but that other 10% could be near impossible depending on conditions. I am still using the "old stuff": swirls and haze remover and machine super sealant Edited July 6, 2015 by AvsBest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Adam's Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 The videos are not a real time representation of how long the polishes are worked. Are you sure you're working the product to the appropriate point aka 'flashing'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Yes sir. Been working it until it gets a little oily looking and then follow up with fine machine polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) Here's the best picture I could get Edited July 7, 2015 by BluePoncho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlelife22 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Quick question... I had a black car and had it detailed. When I got it back it looked great. Couple days later I noticed when it was in the sun that it had "like" 3d buffing swirls. When you look at it at a certain agle it was popping out at you. what causes that and how to prevent that? That is the only thing that worrys me on detailing my own car or using any kind of machine to apply product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marquez93 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Quick question... I had a black car and had it detailed. When I got it back it looked great. Couple days later I noticed when it was in the sun that it had "like" 3d buffing swirls. When you look at it at a certain agle it was popping out at you. what causes that and how to prevent that? That is the only thing that worrys me on detailing my own car or using any kind of machine to apply product. Those are caused by using a high speed rotary buffer. They cut so fast that it's difficult to do it evenly so it gives that look when the sun reflects off of the high and low spots in the clear. Using an orbital polisher like everything that Adam's sells will prevent this because the orbital action works the clear down more slowly and keeps it even because of the orbital action. I hope that makes sense. seattlelife22 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goheels Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 You are better off detailing yourself than bringing it in to 90% of the detail shops out there. Poor technique/choice of tools are very common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Here's the best picture I could get From what I can see you have some haze but you still haven't removed a ton of defects. Honestly you probably need to step all the way down to Severe Swirl Remover, then do a pass with Swirl and Haze, then Fine Machine polish if you are still using up the old system. And as well, if you are using the 7" pads on a PC, I'll be honest, there is only so much correction you can do with that machine and the largest pad size. Current PC polish corrects more than the old Severe Swirl IIRC, you may be able to get better results just getting the new polish and trying with the orange MF or foam pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePoncho Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Well I ordered the latest formulas as well as the new 6" pads. We will give it another go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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