PT3 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 what's the best method for repair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chris@Adams Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Langka does a good job! Kingsford 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 JHL88 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 dr colorchip is another good option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 LFairbanks Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) You can buy the whole kit, or just this. These I find to work well as opposed to the brush that comes with the touch up paint. I find this to be helpful to when cleaning out those spots that you may not have noticed and are starting to collect debris and rust. Hope this helps. Edited December 27, 2014 by LFairbanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 PT3 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 You can buy the whole kit, or just this. These I find to work well as opposed to the brush that comes with the touch up paint. I find this to be helpful to when cleaning out those spots that you may not have noticed and are starting to collect debris and rust. Hope this helps. Thanks Chris! This is greatly helpful. I will be ordering immediately. Request- can you check and repost the link for the brush(es) you prefer? I think you used the complete Langka kit link twice. LFairbanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 LFairbanks Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Thanks Chris! This is greatly helpful. I will be ordering immediately. Request- can you check and repost the link for the brush(es) you prefer? I think you used the complete Langka kit link twice. These??? Sorry, I did screw that up. Here is the link. I will fix it in my original post. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I must have over looked that before posting. http://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0MHXFZ678Q7P8DAH00Q8 Edited December 27, 2014 by LFairbanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 PT3 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 These??? Sorry, I did screw that up. Here is the link. I will fix it in my original post. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I must have over looked that before posting. http://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0MHXFZ678Q7P8DAH00Q8 Awesome! Thanks bud! I am ordering now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Kingsford Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Langka, wont go into details since it's already been suggested. PT3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Rick72 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Langka, wont go into details since it's already been suggested. Details Please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 PT3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Ordered the Langka Blob Eliminator, micro brushes, and OEM touch up paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Team Adam's Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Good call. The langka system works really well for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Ricky Bobby Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Phil why didn't you get Xpel Ultimate installed on your M5? Rock chips are a bitch to chase, you fix a few and a month later you have another couple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 PT3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Phil why didn't you get Xpel Ultimate installed on your M5? Rock chips are a bitch to chase, you fix a few and a month later you have another couple. The price quoted ($1400) didn't make sense as I lease my daily drivers. And at the time, I wasn't into detailing. So I really didn't care. But now that I am getting into detailing I'm kind of thinking maybe I should have gotten it. Question... How do you polish / wax the clear protection films? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Ricky Bobby Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I go by the manufacturers recommendations, for Xpel ultimate Id have to look but I think it can be polished lightly if needed. On my prior vehicle I just waxed/sealed it like my paint. If your M5 is a lease go for the rock chip repair if you wanted, but BMW is just going to refinish the bumper anyway when you trade it in so I wouldn't pull my hair out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 GXPaycheck Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Expel has its own polish, don't think it removes scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 PT3 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 I go by the manufacturers recommendations, for Xpel ultimate Id have to look but I think it can be polished lightly if needed. On my prior vehicle I just waxed/sealed it like my paint. If your M5 is a lease go for the rock chip repair if you wanted, but BMW is just going to refinish the bumper anyway when you trade it in so I wouldn't pull my hair out. Exactly... It's a driver... I do want to keep it looking half decent and clean... But I'm not going to go crazy trying to keep the front in pristine condition. I do a fair amount of highway driving with the big rigs...so roadway damage is inevitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Rick72 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Exactly... It's a driver... I do want to keep it looking half decent and clean... But I'm not going to go crazy trying to keep the front in pristine condition. I do a fair amount of highway driving with the big rigs...so roadway damage is inevitable. I agree with this but I do feel like an annual Road rash spruce up helps. Keep in mind I have not yet done this my self. Still looking into the DIY process more. Dr. Color Chip seems so darn easy. Edited January 3, 2015 by Rick72 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 JLKoupe Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 The price quoted ($1400) didn't make sense as I lease my daily drivers. And at the time, I wasn't into detailing. So I really didn't care. But now that I am getting into detailing I'm kind of thinking maybe I should have gotten it. Question... How do you polish / wax the clear protection films? I've got an Expel clear-bra on the coupe and it's a lifesaver for all the highway driving that I do. The last time I polished, I went over the clear-bra with fine polish and white foam pads. Good results, or at least no damage. I went ahead and sealed it along with the rest of the car, then topped off with glaze and wax. Shines it up as nicely as the rest of the paint. In between, I use Revive to clean it up as needed and buff with Detail Spray, or add a little shot of glaze and wax if I have time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 jonnyoftheA Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 i was wondering after you used the langka system how long should you wait before you perform more than regular detailing ie claying, polishing. i have a chip im working up layers on and am about to use the blob eliminator to smooth it out, i want to get it polished and protected but dont know how long to wait before i do that. new to the forum and adams polishes so thanks for your help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BitterGreg Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I think it depends on how how aggressive you will be getting. Sanding and polishing are common to complete after making a repair to blend and make it look as good as it possibly can. You can also wax seal it one it is air dry as well. I am not sure the length of time needed to wait to clay, if there is any at all. I have the Blob Eliminator as well, and will be trying it out on a few chips. I also want to try out the Dr. Color Chip, as it seems to be geared more toward road rash. It is much quicker, but will probably not have the same visual results, but on the lower part of the bumper I am ok with that. Like most things, Larry does a great job explaining how and why all the steps you need. Ricky Bobby 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Kingsford Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) I'd avoid the pencil part above. The whole purpose of the Langka systems Blob eliminator is to create a smooth surface by removing the excess of the paint above the surface of the rock chip. Using sand paper without a paint thickness gauge is asking for trouble. You could create more damage that what has already been done and most rock chips are smaller the the diameter of an eraser so you will be sanding more than the chip. Edited April 23, 2015 by Kingsford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 jonnyoftheA Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 thanks Greg, yeah I've seen that video, but am trying to be honest with myself and not bite off more than i can chew. ill let you know my post blob eliminator process and the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BitterGreg Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I'd avoid the pencil part above. The whole purpose of the Langka systems Blob eliminator is to create a smooth surface by removing the excess of the paint above the surface of the rock chip. Using sand paper without a paint thickness gauge is asking for trouble. You could create more damage that what has already been done and most rock chips are smaller the the diameter of an eraser so you will be sanding more than the chip. The pencil doesnt have anything to do with the Blob. One is done before to prep the area to accept the paint, the other is used to remove the excess new paint to make it smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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PT3
what's the best method for repair?
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