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Adamized the Raptor


TheWolf

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holy......!!!!  jeez Dan!  you're my hero!  lol  

 

I hadn't done detailing laundry since November!

 

I am set for 12 traditional washes and 3-4 full details.  I then run three loads: plush towels, waffle weaves, then the utility/glass/interior towels.  I have a few dozen other towels not in that previous pic.  They are some generics and some Ubers.  I needed some different colors since I dedicate specific towels to certain tasks: black Uber utility towels are interior only, blue waffle weaves are door jambs and wheel drying, Adam's utility towels are for Quick Sealant on the wheels only, etc.

 

Here's my full set of towels.  I had to convert another cabinet for detailing to fit some more towels and some spare products.

 

20150522_171433.jpg

 

The four Great Whites on the left are dedicated to the Jeep, because that truck only gets washed once in awhile.

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Love your microfiber collection Dan. I always wanted that hand applicator adaptor but Adams never officially came out with it I thought?

 

I think they use to be on the Adam's site, not sure what happened to them.  I bought mine from Thompson Racing because he had them available first, but he does not show stock now.  West Coast Corvette shows them in stock.  Some of the other dealers may still have them.

 

http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-12301-adams-polishes-hand-polishing-adapter.aspx

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Lord all might! Either you don't sleep...or you have no other hobbies...or BOTH! I'm guessing you don't sleep! ; )

 

QUESTION-

So you'll leave soiled towels sit for months? Won't that allow the dirt, stain, wax residue, etc...to 'set' into the fibers of the towel thereby making it harder to come fully clean?

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Phil to answer your question, not really since I do the same thing. If you get a towel that's stained pretty bad I hit it with APC the same day and rinse it out well with hot water so the stains don't set. Wring it out and toss it in the laundry bin damp with the other MF towels. Which do sometimes not get washed for a month or two

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Lord all might! Either you don't sleep...or you have no other hobbies...or BOTH! I'm guessing you don't sleep! ; )

QUESTION-

So you'll leave soiled towels sit for months? Won't that allow the dirt, stain, wax residue, etc...to 'set' into the fibers of the towel thereby making it harder to come fully clean?

Yes, I do sleep and have other hobbies, but right now detailing is the most time consuming and expensive lol.

 

For the towels, I hand wash any soiled ones with MFR&B in the sink with hot water, then hang to dry for a few days. After dry, I store them in lidded swing-top garbage cans until the cans are full or I run out of one of the towel types. I'm afraid that if I tossed them in there wet like Jason does, they might get mildew on them, especially after 4-6 months.

Edited by TheWolf
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I have never really been one to put stickers on vehicles, but I figure this sticker is more of a public service announcement for all the people who see me driving down the road and wonder "How the heck does that Raptor get so dang shiny?"

 

Now they know.

 

20150523_134430.jpg

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Beautiful pic Dan.

 

Thanks Jason!  I have been working on new ideas for interesting photos.  I am getting a little bored with the typical "here's a shiny truck" photos.  :lol:

 

 

I neglected to mention that when I toss my damp towels in my garage laundry basket it is open top and open sides with plenty of airflow. I would not store them damp and dirty in something airtight.

 

Yes, makes sense.  I use closed containers to keep junk out of the towels, since the containers are on the counter next to the kid's craft area.  Play-Doh, paint and Crayons are bad for microfiber towels.

 

20150525_105254.jpg

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Love the Reflections pic Dan! How did you get the reflection of the Adams bucket the way you did? It's not reversed in the image...? Did you use software to doctor it?

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Love the Reflections pic Dan! How did you get the reflection of the Adams bucket the way you did? It's not reversed in the image...? Did you use software to doctor it?

Thanks Phil. Yes, I flipped the image horizontally so the text wasn't backwards, but that was the only editing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

POLISHED AND SEALED

 

With the truck a little over a year old, it had never been polished and good washing technique was used so the paint was still in good shape.  However, there were some very minor scratches that could only be seen in just the right light at just the right angle.  I figure some of these were likely from claying the paint twice last year, and some just from using the truck and getting it dirty.  I debated about going another 6 months before correcting the paint, but was anxious to see how much more shine could be added by polishing.  I also had one fingernail scratch (kids are trained not to touch the paint, still working on the wife), and one scuff mark from a cardboard box (my fault).

 

I did a test section on one area that was easy to see with some direct light, and found that Paint Finishing Polish by itself, for a one-step correction, was not going to be enough.  I then used the Paint Correcting Polish and found that 3-5 passes took care of the very minor scratches.

 

Here’s a run-down of the process.  You will see that I washed it three times, but I can wash fairly quick with my equipment setup, and I like to work with a clean surface when polishing (ie: not having clay residue on the paint that will clog up the pads).

 

I also think having super clean paint makes the Liquid Paint Sealant last longer, since it gets a good bond.

 

20150612_131818.jpg

 

 

Detailing Process with paint correction (machine application):

  1. Washed vehicle with 3 oz Car Wash Shampoo and 3 oz All Purpose Cleaner in the foam cannon.
  2. Thorough rinse and then applied Detail Spray, did not dry.
  3. Clay Bar treatment with Detail Spray.
  4. Washed vehicle to remove residue from claying, using Car Wash Shampoo and All Purpose Cleaner in the foam cannon.
  5. Dried with Master Blaster and Great White Drying Towel (no Detail Spray)
  6. Quick Sealant on all plastic and rubber, making sure to level it out on the trim and the adjacent paint with a foam applicator.
  7. Quick Sealant on vinyl graphics, leveling it with a foam applicator.
  8. Paint Correcting Polish with Orange Foam Cutting Pad on the Cyclo, 3-5 passes and then removed residue with Double Soft Towel.
  9. Paint Finishing Polish with White Foam Finishing Pad on the Cyclo, 2-3 passes and then removed residue with Double Soft Towel.
  10. Hand polished the gloss vinyl graphics with Clear Polish and a Double Soft Towel.
  11. Washed vehicle to remove dust from polishing, using Car Wash Shampoo in the foam cannon.
  12. Dried with Master Blaster and Great White Drying Towel (no Detail Spray).
  13. Wiped-down paint with 50% Isopropyl Alcohol and Double Soft Towels, being careful not to wipe the Quick Sealant off the plastics and rubber trim.
  14. Liquid Paint Sealant with Black Machine Sealant Pad on the Cylco, using a mini foam applicator to apply by hand next to trim, removed with Double Soft Towels.  Applied by hand to painted portions of bumpers and lights.
  15. Glass Cleaner with Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel.
  16. Glass Sealant with Mini Applicator and Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel.
  17. Quick Sealant on the wheels, using a Microfiber Utility towel to level it out.
  18. Applied Tire Shine by spray and then spread it with the Hex Grip Tire Applicator.

I did not apply any wax this time.  I wanted to see how Liquid Paint Sealant looked all by itself, and also to see if not having a wax made any difference with dust and pollen sticking to the surface.

 

The dual 4-inch heads on the Cyclo make it easy to get into tight spaces.

 

 20150612_140017.jpg

 

 

Since the plastics and rubber trim were sealed with Quick Sealant, there was no need to mask off all the trim.  I did mask one door handle so I could polish out a fingernail scratch that was right next to the handle.  The tape kept the polisher from hitting the plastic and removing the sealant.

 

20150612_144219.jpg

 

 

When the polishing pads would start to dust, I sprayed them with a little Detail Spray.  Even using this trick, there was still a lot of polishing dust, which is why I wash after polishing.

 

20150612_162240.jpg

 

 

It is always a good idea to have extra pads available.  They don’t usually fly off, but polishing one-handed while trying to take a picture seems to increase the chances a pad will end up on the ground.  NEVER use anything that was on the ground.

 

20150612_165049.jpg

 

 

Finished late, so I let the pads soak in All Purpose Cleaner overnight.

 

20150612_174338.jpg

 

 

A reflection shot taken in the garage.

 

20150612_224901.jpg

 

 

Final photos in the next post…

Edited by TheWolf
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As you can see, correcting the paint does add more shine. Polishing removes scratches you can see, but the polishing is also removing imperfections you can’t see with the naked eye. These imperfections in the clear coat affect the clarity of the reflected light, and removing them is how you get even shinier!

The Liquid Paint Sealant provides plenty of gloss by itself, and I think it will be even shinier once I top it with the H20 Guard & Gloss.

IMG_6035.JPG

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IMG_6044.JPG

20150614_174148.jpg

Edited by TheWolf
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Wow.  Really clean and impressive pics Dan

 

Awesome, helluva good lookin truck.

 

Thanks Jason and Chas!

 

With the paint polished, it seems like more of the metallic flakes can be seen when the evening sun hits it.

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