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My First Full Detail Experience

compudiva

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compudiva

compudiva

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Well, I did my first full detail yesterday.  Strip wash, clay, 2 step polish, sealant, glaze and wax, interior and of course tire/wheels, hit the engine bay nothing major.

 

All of this took me 9.5 hours.  The car was a Toyota corolla.  This is a co-worker's car who graciously 'donated' her car for my first full detail; as I have never used a polishing machine before.  I do enjoy the detailing process and as many of you I am thinking of starting something on the side.  So, we came up with a barter payment - she is design my logo and stuff.  

 

So, I started with the wheels.  They seemed to take forever but the deep wheel cleaner and apc did an amazing job.

 

On to the wash - a rinse, foam gun soak and 2 bucket wash with the car shampoo and some apc for the stripping action.  Pretty simple and easy enough, despite the occasionally battles with beatles - bugs - arrgghh!  Dry it with a GWDT.

 

Next, we pull it into the garage, out of the sun.  Whew, was warming up out there.  I started on the interior first - vacuumed, and used the interior cleaner.  Being detailed oriented I feared that I would spend too much time on the interior so I decided to move on.  On to the clay bar - should be able to get faster here.  This is pretty easy too, have done this before on my vehicles.  Now, on to the new part - polishing.

 

The polishing was not too bad but I was really getting discouraged when non of the scratches were coming out.  I had put a mark on the pad - a tip from one of the videos.  That helped as I was able to notice how fast the pad was turning.  Much faster than in the video.  So I applied more pressure and FINALLY a scratch disappeared!!!  YAY!!!    :2thumbs:  Then I went back over some of the others.  They got better but I did get a little timid over some scratches which were taking many passes, so some I did not get out completely.  I eventually realize that the polish was flashing very quickly - I guess do to temperature and humidity.  I think the 2 step process took me like 2 hours - I can probably shorten this time some as well.

 

Next was the sealant - this was pretty simple.  Must wear a mask next time.  While that cured, I returned to the interior - hit the windows, applied the TID, upholstery cleaning - ugggghh the door jams.

 

Returned to exterior.  Applied applied glaze and wax.  Pulled out of garage to apply final touches.  It is probably about 7pm by this time and I started at 9am.  I forgot about the gas tank door - was pretty gunky in there.  Did not get it clean but was better.  I opened the trunk and arrrgghhh, just needed to clean around the opening.

 

So, about 8:30 my friend returns to pick up her car and is like- OMG, this looks like new!  Who, it is so smooth - omg!   :lancer:

 

So some things I learned - 

Must wear back support

Don't be timid about applying pressure during polishing - get the mark to spin  close to a second.

Definitely be organized - thankfully I was but I see how that is a big thing.

 

Pictures coming...

 

Next week - my mom's explorer.

 

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ihaveacamaro

ihaveacamaro

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Congrats on your first detail!!

 

The one thing that stood out to me was that you did the two step polish in two hours and you think you can shorten the time. I have to wonder how fast are you moving your buffer? That may be why you are able to finish so fast as well as not getting the perfect results you were aiming for.

 

When I correct paint, I find you get the best results the slower you move the buffer. Just the two step process on the paint can take me six hours.

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Norton

Norton

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Congrats on a productive day, OP!  

 

I have to wonder how fast are you moving your buffer? That may be why you are able to finish so fast as well as not getting the perfect results you were aiming for.

When I correct paint, I find you get the best results the slower you move the buffer. Just the two step process on the paint can take me six hours.

:iagree:

 

Also, be careful with rushing the 12-24 hour curing time for sealant.  Glazing/waxing/layering it prematurely can cause/trap cloudiness.

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ihaveacamaro

ihaveacamaro

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No, it's a rather slow process but it is the most enjoyable (at least to me) :)

 

What I would recommend is doing a test spot. In other words get a 2 x 2 area on the paint absolutely perfect and scratch free. Then when you have found out what it takes to get a test spot perfect, go ahead and do whatever you did to the rest of the car.

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GerryC

GerryC

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Definitely move the polisher slower. You nailed the part with marking the pad and watching it spin, so just take your time moving back and forth, up and down, overlap each pass by about half, and the swirls should come out with ease. Do a test area like Roshan suggested. Once you figure out how to perfect that one spot, then replicate that technique over the rest of the car. Every paint finish is different, so use that test spot to "learn" that car's paint, and you'll avoid wasted time/energy later on.  :2thumbs:

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Hot_Wheel

Hot_Wheel

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This sounds awesome.  I have yet to go the full route -- I've stopped at washing & VRT on the wheels (the car is 2 months old).  I'm getting a "practice car" this week (I'm going to surprise my mom).  I'm hoping to learn some things about the polisher...

 

Great thread -- great inspiration.

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JBlack151

JBlack151

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Sounds like you got a good feel of things on this vehicle. From here on out you'll discover different techniques to help shave time off when possible. Glad to hear it worked out well for you and can't wait to see some pictures.  :2thumbs:

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GerryC

GerryC

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Thanks Gerry.  Any tips for when the polish flashes quickly due to the temperatures/humidity?  I may try my mom's vehicle later this week.

How quick is it flashing? The new two-step should have a lot longer work time than the old stuff. Are you working in direct sunlight? If the surface of the car is hot it will dry out the polish prematurely. You can try to help it along with another mist of DS, but it's best to work when the car is cool and out of the sun. If this is unavoidable, wait for an overcast day, or wait until later in the day when the sun isn't directly overhead.

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Norton

Norton

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Those are the steps for the old forum. The new one is slightly different. I will update that topic.

 

Good to know, and explains why I don't do much picture posting... :huh:   Thanks, Gerry!  

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compudiva

compudiva

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Gerry, I was in the garage out of direct sunlight.  I was able to get a couple of passes back and forth, up and down but it seemed like it was flashing after a minute or two.  Then I would either add more polish or hit it with the detail spray.

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Baron_Von_Awesome

Baron_Von_Awesome

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Looks great for your first full detail!  More experience will get you better results with the buffer - I do agree with what some folks said in that you do need to slow down a bit - I could do a full correction in 1.5 hours as a rotary user with a decade of experience...if you're going at that same pace with a DA polisher...slow down a touch :)

 

The biggest thing I noticed though: Pick your battles!  You hopped back and forth too much.  The best thing you can do for yourself is plot out a process and stick to it, which will save you a lot of time.  This is by no means definitive, but probably a good framework:

 

BE CONFIDENT:  I'll bet money you went fast in part because you were nervous.  Calm down...slow down.

PRE-WASH: Wheels, tires, jambs, trim, de-bug gutting, exhaust tips.  Don't dress anything yet - just clean.  Also note any damage you see if this is a customer car - don't continue until they know about it.

WASH & CLAY:  There's time savings in here - clay the car as part of the washing process - not after you dry it

INTERIOR:  Start to finish.  Work from the center of the car out to the glass and lastly the door jambs.  Don't forget to look up - headliners and sunroof glass need love, too.

CORRECTION: Find your formula and polish.  Is the paint soft enough to knock it all out in one step?  Most of the time the answer is yes.

FINAL RINSE:  Get rid of polishing oils & dust.  Waterless wash would probably work well for this step.

DRESS & PROTECT: Dress everything you cleaned in the pre-wash, apply your LSP(s) and clean the glass

 

 

 

 

 

 

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windycitylp

windycitylp

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Looks great for your first full detail!  More experience will get you better results with the buffer - I do agree with what some folks said in that you do need to slow down a bit - I could do a full correction in 1.5 hours as a rotary user with a decade of experience...if you're going at that same pace with a DA polisher...slow down a touch :)

 

The biggest thing I noticed though: Pick your battles!  You hopped back and forth too much.  The best thing you can do for yourself is plot out a process and stick to it, which will save you a lot of time.  This is by no means definitive, but probably a good framework:

 

BE CONFIDENT:  I'll bet money you went fast in part because you were nervous.  Calm down...slow down.

PRE-WASH: Wheels, tires, jambs, trim, de-bug gutting, exhaust tips.  Don't dress anything yet - just clean.  Also note any damage you see if this is a customer car - don't continue until they know about it.

WASH & CLAY:  There's time savings in here - clay the car as part of the washing process - not after you dry it

INTERIOR:  Start to finish.  Work from the center of the car out to the glass and lastly the door jambs.  Don't forget to look up - headliners and sunroof glass need love, too.

CORRECTION: Find your formula and polish.  Is the paint soft enough to knock it all out in one step?  Most of the time the answer is yes.

FINAL RINSE:  Get rid of polishing oils & dust.  Waterless wash would probably work well for this step.

DRESS & PROTECT: Dress everything you cleaned in the pre-wash, apply your LSP(s) and clean the glass

im about to clay for the first time, how would you go about claying while washing? i thought id have to dry and then clay to avoid waterspots.

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Doug123

Doug123

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I asssume that you are using a PC with SHR and FMP.  If the polish is 'flashing'  too quickly, it may be due to drying in the heat, so another  little spritz of detail spray on the pad will help.  If it's drying, not 'flashing', it's not getting enough time to do the work it's supposed to do.  The flashing (going to a greasy look, kind of like vaseline) is the change in the abrasives from having enough work done to them.

 

For best results, don't hurry the polishing.  That is the single biggest mistake we can make.  We want to get done, so we hurry.  Two hours for all the paint on a car seems way too fast.  I have been known to do 1+ hours on a door panel (perfection for a photo shoot of my DD).

 

Don't make the mistake I did on my first detail and think that more polish will work better - it doesn't, it works slower.  (It's counter-intuitive)  Only use 3 or 4 pea sized drops on the pad and a spritz of detail spray.  If it's drying before flashing, give the pad a 2nd light spritz of DS and keep working that area. 

 

I know it seems weird, but you will get better/more efficient with practice.  This is part science AND part art/skill.

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