NEW Detail Spray Feedback.

[Tomahawk]

Today was the first time I have ever used this product.  For claying it is great.  Light misting was all I needed.  Just not a fan of the bubble gum scent. 

[detailinmotion]

I got curious today with the detailing spray....it cleans windows better than stoner window wipes....

[Synergy]

I'm not the biggest fan of the new detail spray. The smell of the new spray is horrible compared to the previous spray.

 

I also noticed when sitting the detail spray creates a white residue on the bottom like Dylan mentioned earlier.

 

 

The color slowly disapears and turns into a white milky like color instead of bright pink like the previous spray as well

 

 

 

As far as performance, I don't notice much of a difference. Either way, I'm still happy with the product considering we literally use it with almost every step during our details. The most handy product we've ever used.

 

I do miss the smell of the old spray, but it is what it is! 10 gallons on order from Thompson Racing as we speak!

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Edited July 1, 2013 by Synergy

[THE Mook]

The color separation will happen over time...the white at the bottom....if you don't shake your products every few weeks.  That can be said for most of our stuff.  It's not packed with a ton of crap to stay on someone's retail shelves for years, therefore, it's necessary to shake them up every now and again!

 

Also, the old DS would have a brown ring at the top if it wasn't shaken for a bit...just saying!

[GerryC]

the Wax Preservative in the new formula will layer itself cloudy if used too much.

I'm still burning through my old stuff but getting close to the end. This part about the wax preservative has me a bit concerned, especially when used for claying. Adam's suggests leaving the clay residue on the finish and moving straight onto polishing (most often I will re-wash the car, or at the very least hose off the majority of the residue), but if the new DS has a "layering" or "preserving" property, would this interfere with the polishing process? Much like polishing waxed paint would gunk up the pad with wax? Same thing goes for using DS as a drying agent before moving on to clay.

 

Just need some clarification before restocking, since we still have some of the old stuff by the gallon here at the dealer in CT. For the record, I've used the new formula but for wipedowns only on customer's cars. Slicker and easier to remove, but not enough to convince me to ditch "old reliable" just yet.

 

Thanks

[MAYBEN]

I'm still going through mine as well.. although I've been too busy (and hot) to use anything lately, lol

[07RS4]

Always, Always, ALWAYS shake detailing chemicals before use. Things settle out over time. You'll notice with the new DS a white residue at the bottom of the bottles if they sit for awhile. If you bottle out of unmixed product that has sat undisturbed you're getting incomplete or unbalanced mixtures of the components and certainly you'll get less than desirable results if you're not getting the appropriate mixture.

 

THIS DOES NOT APPLY ONLY TO DETAIL SPRAY! Shake EVERYTHING before use... you wouldn't drink orange juice out of the carton without shaking first then complain it tasted funny right? Things separate... make sure you shake your gallons before refilling your 16's... make sure you shake your 16's before using them.

 

Dylan, I've always had this question, that no one has ever been able to answer.  Now, bear in mind I don't go through enough product to warrant a 5 gallon jug....buuuuut how are the 5 gallon jugs of any product gett mixed sufficiently?  What am I missing here?

 

Thanks D.

[JHL88]

I'm still burning through my old stuff but getting close to the end. This part about the wax preservative has me a bit concerned, especially when used for claying. Adam's suggests leaving the clay residue on the finish and moving straight onto polishing (most often I will re-wash the car, or at the very least hose off the majority of the residue), but if the new DS has a "layering" or "preserving" property, would this interfere with the polishing process? Much like polishing waxed paint would gunk up the pad with wax? Same thing goes for using DS as a drying agent before moving on to clay.

 

Just need some clarification before restocking, since we still have some of the old stuff by the gallon here at the dealer in CT. For the record, I've used the new formula but for wipedowns only on customer's cars. Slicker and easier to remove, but not enough to convince me to ditch "old reliable" just yet.

 

Thanks

 

I was actually thinking about this the other day too, but i've always used WW for my clay lube.

[Tim]

Dylan, I've always had this question, that no one has ever been able to answer.  Now, bear in mind I don't go through enough product to warrant a 5 gallon jug....buuuuut how are the 5 gallon jugs of any product gett mixed sufficiently?  What am I missing here?

 

Thanks D.

It is my workout for the day.  Simply pick it up and shake it (then take a nap).

[07RS4]

It is my workout for the day.  Simply pick it up and shake it (then take a nap).

Bwahaha, nice!

[BKazzle]

@Gerry- Just curious as to why you would use quick detailer as a drying agent before you're going to clay and wax or clay/polish and wax. Most spray waxes and/or quick detailers help in the drying process (eliminating water spots and adding shine), but probably not a needed step before claying and polishing. This is a maintenance step; not paint preparation step.

Not sure why anyone uses a quick detailer alone for claying. I understand the lubricity factor but at least dilute it. I personally like to clay after the wash, but before I dry. So I use a foam gun as clay lube while I'm going around the car. I've even had good outcomes in the sun using Adam's car soap. Obviously not recommended and claying in shade would be ideal, but not always possible. Once I rinse and dry after claying, I like to spot check my claying with the plastic bag while using diluted clay lube (your preference).

A quick detailer is usually marketed as a wax booster; like Adam's, not a liquid wax.

 

Layers of paste/liquid wax have been studied to only lay about 15-25 nanometers in thickness (1 nm= 1/1000th of a micron) (for reference a clear coat is usually 50-75 microns), so I cant see how a detail spray that's "wax boosting" could lay enough of a layer to clog up a pad. Its designed to extend your wax by assisting the wax in bonding better; not add an additional thick layer.

 

Of course I didn't design the product, so not entirely sure of its ability. However, this is how most wax boosting quick detailers work.

[GerryC]

@Gerry- Just curious as to why you would use quick detailer as a drying agent before you're going to clay and wax or clay/polish and wax. 

Personally I wouldn't, as it would be a waste of product. I have my own process which is somewhat similar to yours (depending on whether or not the car has been clayed in the past). I was just questioning the effects of the wax booster when the DS is used as instructed in Adam's official videos.

[BKazzle]

Personally I wouldn't, as it would be a waste of product. I have my own process which is somewhat similar to yours (depending on whether or not the car has been clayed in the past). I was just questioning the effects of the wax booster when the DS is used as instructed in Adam's official videos.

My thought as well.

 

I would be interested to hear too.

[Team Adam's]

Dylan, I've always had this question, that no one has ever been able to answer.  Now, bear in mind I don't go through enough product to warrant a 5 gallon jug....buuuuut how are the 5 gallon jugs of any product gett mixed sufficiently?  What am I missing here?

 

Thanks D.

 

Um... shake it. I know its heavy, but it needs to be shaken if its sat undisturbed otherwise you get different concentrations of product. 

[07RS4]

Um... shake it. I know its heavy, but it needs to be shaken if its sat undisturbed otherwise you get different concentrations of product. 

 

Well duh

 

I'm assuming people have these on the bottom of their detailing cart or on product dispensing racks (if they own a shop), so the affor mentioned mixing strategy is not so easily accomplished

[Team Adam's]

Sure it is... you don't have to shake it that vigorously... I take my personal ones and just slide them back and forth on the shelf. The sloshing motion gets it mixed up nice. 

[Big O]

I suppose you could slide in one of those paint mixers on a drill if you don't wanna aggitate the entire container.

[Team Adam's]

Wire coat hanger bent a little works as well... straighten it out, bend it into a few curves, but keeping it thin enough you can slide in thru the opening. Attach drill to the end and pull the trigger. 

[07RS4]

Good ideas...you all may have convinced me to order more than I need now, haha.

[EPHIOS]

Good ideas...you all may have convinced me to order more than I need now, haha.

Believe me. I have more than I needed. I still have more than 6 gallons of this new formula.

[GerryC]

Put it on a low profile rolling cart and just spin it around.

 

Or hire Lou Ferrigno.

[JBlack151]

I sense an official Adam's mixer in the making!

[Feets31]

Each 5 gallon should come with a mixer inside that can be accessed by a connection on the bottom of the jug.  Hook your drill to that and  mix away.   Shouldn't add but $30-50 to the price.  

[EPHIOS]

Correct me if I am wrong. The last two gallons of DS I bought does not "white" settling on the bottom of the jug. I experience the settling on my last four jugs, however. Was the formula revised to decrease the settling?

Edited July 8, 2013 by EPHIOS

[Team Adam's]

We are bottling slightly differently now. 

 

Before we would mix the batch using a bubbler then move to bottling. 

 

The product is now bubbled continuously thru the entire bottling process. This introduces more turbulence into the mix while we're bottling. So far we've found it does make the products appear more milky... haven't noticed any reduction in settling though.