TheBurninator

See I like TID... but I add a bit of SVRT to it to give it a small boost in the amount of dressing it lays down.

I'd use a combo of both then. Waterless is better at breaking down bugs with a presoak. Rinseless would be the safer bet for cleaning after the car has been out all weekend. So I would presoak the bugs with waterless and then do a rinseless. Similar to on a really dirty car, you would presoak before doing a rinseless.

5000k is still a bit on the blue side of things. 4300-4500 K seems to be the closest I have seen to daylight. Any warmer (lower number) and you start to get yellow, and any higher it tends to go blue.

I've really found a less is more approach is better with it. At least with the dry application method. Unfortunately I haven't had good luck with the wet application due to lack of shade at my house and the project car sitting in the garage.

Absolutely. I was just trying to keep it cooler with extra lube on the panels, but I will keep the fridge trick in mind for this weekend on the R32 I'm doing.

I bought some of the grey stuff the other day. It seems way stickier than I remember it being before. The consistency was almost runny in a way. I did find it stuck to gloves worse than my bare hands and if it sticks to your hands just rubbing the clay against my hands took it back off. With that said it at least pull contaminants off of my paint unlike the blue clay. And didn't mar like the blue clay. Using rinseless as lube it seemed to stick worse than detail spray. Eventually I tried my other choice in clay lube (Megs D155 @ 1:1) which seemed to help with it sticking to my hands. At least if it sticks to your hands you can't drop it

... you guys haven't done that before? I mean I was doing maintenance at the time and had to pull the engine anyways, but I spent a good few days cleaning the bay and the engine with it out. Going to do the CC the same way here soon too.

FTFY

Maybe once or twice per season. After getting the wheels clean with DWC the first time I seal my wheels with QS or LPS. From then on I can do maintenance cleaning with just Car Shampoo and agitation with a wheel brush.

Good lookin' TA. My old roommate has one, and it was always a fun car to take out.

Generally IPA wipe downs are to inspect results after paint correction. When polishing the paint any remaining wax or sealant is abraded away by the polishing process. The IPA is to wipe away any left over polishing oils that could mask results. Obviously there are a few other uses as well, but in the future to save you some time and trouble you can probably skip the IPA wipe down until at least after the polishing process.

I love JSW's. I wouldn't mind one at all for a daily. Although I have trouble leaving cars alone long enough to daily them full time Malone tune would be the way to go. APR just sucks in general. Never had good experiences with their tunes and I really distrust them after VW called them out on selling bunk parts recently. Personally I am a Unitronic guy or GIAC depending on what I am doing. GIAC for cars that I leave the emissions equiptment in. Uni for anything that is a swap car. Same SN on vortex here too. Usually in the Corrado forum or Mk3 forum. I never post in the CC forums... to many idiots in there.

Similarly I've been breaking my personal cars and some customer cars into 2 day jobs. Interior and then wheels/tires on the first, Decon wash and correction on the second.

Waterless wash would be my first choice in your situation, although keeping a bucket of rinseless ready to go every morning would be ideal. Not having a garage to keep the bucket at ready in kinda kills that idea.

I can relate to this. Having a single car garage that has been taken over by a project car for the last 8 months and raining almost every day after work for the past month and a half has really taken a toll on my desire to detail. My normal detailing money has gone to the project, and lack of full nice days kills my drive to keep the other two cars clean.

LOL the Mk3 used to be so bad I had a stack of 2 2x8's tall and had to use a mini jack to get the car high enough up for the big jack. Now it is much higher up. Control arms parallel and setup more for performance. The CC is cake though. Air up, jack fits no problem. I love my air setup more and more every day.

I usually just roll the car back a couple feet... Then again I have some ramps I made to be able to fit a jack under the cars, so I guess I could do this too.

You may want to scrub that black plastic trim piece with some APC and something like the pad conditioning brush before applying SVRT. It will help get rid of surface oxidization of the plastic and allow the SVRT to soak in more evenly.

As stated above I wouldn't use glass sealant, but I have been known to put quick sealant on pretty much everything I own....

Maybe I should try this and see if I don't get bothered by the employees as much.

I like the pump tops. They are classy looking and actually really functional for the products I have tried them with. If I really want something with a spout top I have better options than the old bottle tops anyways.

I stand corrected For some reason DWC always seems harsher than it really is. Maybe because of how well it works I always avoided it on certain wheels I own. Guess I'll play with it a bit on the Schmidts now....

I wouldn't try to use DWC on a raw billet wheel. It would likely etch the bare aluminum.

Brilliant glaze will probably cause more static when removing it than the rinseless is causing. I would either do a detail spray wipe down or waterless wash like a detail spray wipe down and see if that helps.

Just going to drop this in here to add to the discussion. It was more of an experiment with Dawn dishsoap, but it also shows what using IPA does or doesn't do as well. http://imgur.com/a/YkEYv Not my work, but I came across it a few weeks back.