TheBurninator

For anyone else trying this steam helps a ton in making life easier for tint removal. I may do a writeup on it soon if I have some time.

It was nice meeting you this past weekend Joe. Nice seeing Matt and Adam as well. Hopefully the weather holds out for December and I will see you guys again.

Another tip for you is start at the bottom of the bay and work your way to the top. The grimiest stuff is usually towards the bottom/ frame rails. You won't have stuff dripping down on you from washing the underside of the hood first that way either. I like to use a steam cleaner in spots that aren't easily accessible or have really tough grime. Lots of different brushes. Wheel woolies, etc etc. Personally I don't like In and Out Spray. So I dilute VRT and spray it for a dressing.

Mostly due to the shape of the fender liners. I can get the front and back section easily, but the top section has a pretty heavy curve to it. Large wheel woolie is my only saving grace there. I still cant really reach the inner section of the fender liner near the strut. But I also don't have much clearance between the tire and the edge of the fender even when I am aired all the way up. Maybe 2 inches if I am lucky. The rear wheel wells are a whole other nightmare. Like an extreme version of the curve in the front, but with the added bonus of it having the cloth VW fender liners in the rear. Obviously this is more of a special case, but I find wouldn't mind a fender brush with the head bent backwards on the handle for those areas. Probably would save some fender edges from damage too. On SUV's and trucks I like to use a short handle brush like the tire brush and just shove my whole arm in there

Not really, but I would think it would need some curvature to the brush to be able to conform to the fender like longer bristles would. I really can't get to my wheel wells very well without pulling a wheel, so this is sort of moot point for me.

No. I moved to air. I wasn't happy at all with the KW's. They felt too soft and the car had a ton of roll. Figured I would give air a shot. Fenders are untouched. I am just really good at measuring offsets I even have the fender liners still in. I appreciate the comments The KW's were all the way down in the front in the first pics I posted. I wasn't impressed with them at all. Probably would have been better off with H&R or Bilstien PSS's. The ride wasn't firm at all, car felt sloppy unless I had a full tank of gas to pre-load the springs. Airlift slam series up front, might move to performance series or build a different top mount for these... The strut "bearing" that airlift uses is a joke. Lasted 6k miles, so I have been coming up with a design that uses a stock strut mount and bearing. The goods: Management is Accuair E-Level. I haven't finished the trunk setup at all, I just kind of threw it together to make it to Vegas. All the wiring I took my time with though. Ran with the factory wiring. Had the whole interior out for a couple of weeks while I routed everything. Wiring:

Got some new goodies for the car back in april. Car sits a touch lower now It is a tight fit

I love those cars. Came out nice!

Worst case you can clay with DWC if you still can't get it by soaking alone.

This is the cheapest I have found for a heated extractor. http://www.cleanfreak.com/Qstore/p002323.htm I have seen it on a couple of sites for around 600 or so.

You could always wash your car more and use more detail spray to justify a gallon

Holy sh*t! That thing sounds insane!! How do your neighbors feel about that? lol

I like my bissell for this stuff. Though I really want to upgrade to a real carpet extractor

I keep forgetting to get a second bucket for wheel and fender duty. Thanks for the reminder Nick.

I have all glass furniture at my house. Sealant makes it all so much easier to keep clean. Everything just wipes right off.

You could always split a gallon with a friend. I do this for certain things like VRT... Saves money on things without them going to waste.

It is the same prep work no matter how you spray it. Rattle can or spray gun shouldn't make a difference in that respect. And you should be able to pull off the same quality regardless of method, depending on the quality of the paint/clear itself that you use. You might just have a bit more work to finish with a rattle can since you did pretty dry coats. It won't help. The texture is under the paint on the part itself. Otherwise he could do that and it would get rid of the effect of spraying it dry as well. It would look like a pro did it.

Thanks mook! I actually hated it until I saw it in the sun the day after I bought the car. The pearl popped and I saw the potential.

You should smooth the texture out of the plastic before painting. It would look worlds better. And maybe don't use so much air pressure when shooting the parts, they won't look like you shot them dry.

Save that for later this year. It is getting some more go-fast goodies. The last 6 years it has been my vacation spot. I love it there and look forward to it every year Thank you! They are sharp looking cars. and with what I had to go through to get this one I won't be getting rid of it anytime soon Here is a quick couple videos so you guys can hear it. Sounds like a big R32 motor.

The noises that engine makes.... And it has been completely reliable. Maybe I'll post a video from the gopro in a bit. Thanks Adam! I'll bring it to the next detail clinic at the warehouse

I love it. Really glad I held out for a 3.6 too. Thank you! Took about 8 hours solid of polishing to get the paint to where it is now from when I bought it. Thank you!

Just figured I would post up a few pics from last summer of the CC. It has already been across country twice since I bought it in August. This shoot was from when I drove from Colorado to Ocean City, MD for H2Oi (VW show). Damn near got arrested for driving up on the boardwalk LOL. Nothing fancy, just some KW coilovers and Bentley Wheels.

wrong thread. OOPS

I actually got on the forum tonight to see if there were more coming in or not. You just made my night!