GerryC

If the vehicle you plan on waxing is a daily driver and/or it is exposed to harsh elements or weather, I'd suggest investing in a porter-cable 7424 polisher and use Adam's Machine Superwax. This wax has sealing properties and is more durable and lasts longer than the Buttery Wax (up to 6 months as opposed to 6 weeks). The downside is the Buttery Wax is easier to work with, but the tradeoff is worth it for a vehicle that sees a lot of mother nature. You live in Michigan so you probably know what I'm talking about If you want, get both. Do what I do which is a complete detail in March/April using the Superwax, wash once a week, and every 4-6 weeks lay down a coat of Buttery Wax by hand to maintain the shine and protection. Then another complete detail around October/November to prepare for winter. Either way you can't go wrong and both products will give you fantastic results

You know you have something special when you convert your competitor's customers before they even actually use your products

I need some part-time work.

You can do the whole process minus the Revive. The Fine Machine Polish does the same job however it is more aggressive than the Revive and therefore can get rid of light swirl marks on its own. Depending on the condition of your paint you can use the Swirl & Haze Remove before or combined with the Fine Machine Polish to remove moderate swirls.

Like Mark said make sure they are completely dry before putting them in a plastic bag otherwise the bag will get loaded with condensation. This goes for anything; pads, towels, sponges, or mf applicators. I keep a desiccant pack in both my wash bucket and detail bag just in case

so if we order one now we'll get one with adamspolishes.com ?

Wow what a difference :thumbsup: I hope your garage is heated, with the temps we've had lately I can't imagine what it's like up there

I sent my returns out on Friday. I like working with numbers and I always get money back so I'm one of the few people who enjoy tax time. Finding write-offs is important like you said Rob. For example I receive non-employee compensation from Google through ads I place on websites I maintain, so when I report self-employment income I can deduct the yearly cost for my internet connection as a business expense.

I use Revive by machine on the white pad. Adam mentions in the current DVD that you can use Revive by machine, and in the previous DVD he says that the Buttery Wax could also be applied with the PC, and I'm assuming the black pad. I personally wouldn't use the Buttery Wax with the machine though, because it isn't as thick as the Superwax, so there's a possibility of spreading it too thin.

:jawdrop::jawdrop:

the only thing I found hard about insane difficulty (in act 4 on insane right now) is that Dom bleeds out pretty quick, and since he has a tendency to just run right up to a group of 10 enemies it pretty much sabotages the whole level for you.

I've had mine for 2 years and never got a RROD, guess I got a lucky one. my gamertag is gtawh I've been playing a lot of Gears of War 2 lately but now that classes have started again my precious videogame time has dwindled

I sit on the ground and lean into the side of the car with the polisher. If you try it while standing you'll kill yourself

Is there a way to get a wider version of the current bottles? So all the bottles in your lineup maintain consistent appearance. the cylindrical bottle with a dome top and an all black sprayer is synonymous with Adam's

He's referring to the winter washing videos Adam made: http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1358

I made a canvass painting of a massive landmass of grass that encompasses a biomass of classy surgeons performing a quadruple bypass. EDIT: Well I expected a bunch of *** now I just look stupid

Yep, all those specks and junk that the claybar removes from your paint are actually blocking light from reflecting evenly in your paint. This is why after claying the surface is not only totally smooth, but appears deeper because all of the light is being reflected 100% by the paint and not the crud that was once bonded to the surface.

I use either my leaf blower or my shop vac exhaust, and then towel the remainder. Less water on the car before you start toweling, less it gets soaked up and the easier it is to dry effectively. Then again, after an Adam's treatment, water treats my paint like oil. 90% of the paint dries itself thanks to gravity, it all falls right off

"CASES"

very much looking forward to these updates :xfingers:

I like that body kit, it's very tasteful and not over-the-top

So, would it be better to not shake it up before use or would it not make a difference? I always just thought it was natural separation like with some of the other products so I always shook my DS until the brown stuff dissolved before using it.

stash some velvet rope and 4 posts in your trunk and set them up around your car before going inside

For a daily driver that isn't garaged I'd recommend using a portercable and Adam's Machine Superwax. It has sealant properties and therefore offers better and longer lasting protection than the Buttery Wax. Superwax lasts for months.

It's finally supposed to be above freezing tomorrow for the first time in weeks. My white daily driver is now two-tone grey and brown (almost but not as bad as your excusrion). Hopefully I can give it a quick blast off with the hose tomorrow