GerryC

wait..so we're not supposed to be using these??? -------- Rez, You can certainly do the wash and clay one day and the polish/wax the next, but as suggested above, wipe off the Detail Spray residue after claying. If you leave it on overnight it will dry into pink spots. The spots will come off, but it would add an extra step for you the next day when I'm sure you would want to just jump right into the polishing. Do however, go over the car quickly with a microfiber towel the next day before polishing to remove any dust that may have fallen on the car overnight. And don't forget to take pictures, everybody here loves pictures

Good job Chris, I hit my DD's headlights with a SHR/Revive mix on PC setting 3 and after about 2 minutes I was just as happy as you were:banana:

VRT can be used on the inside but I like to keep VRT for exterior only and use the Leather Conditioner for the interior. Leather Conditioner has more SPF (65) and since pieces like the dashboard are subject to more direct sunlight, Leather Conditioner is better, plus it makes the interior smell like new.

Most likely as they are degreasing agents

Buttery Wax works very well on clear-coated wheels, especially at keeping brake dust from sticking. Plus it makes the wheels stand out. From a distance, the first thing you notice on my Vette are the wheels http://adamsforums.com/forums/album.php?albumid=11&pictureid=499

This is what I do: Spray with APC Agitate with fingers to break the polish loose Spray with hose (I use the spray attachment on my sink) Squeeze out majority of the water by hand Put the pad on the pc, set it to 6 Put it inside your bucket and turn on the polisher to sling all the water out as suggested above Sit the pads in front of the dehumidifier in the basement or put them in the dryer on low heat for 15 minutes

Well, yes, because the oils that cause the hazing I spoke of would end up being trapped under the second coat and therefore unable to be removed easily. Some people have different results but it's better to be safe than sorry. I went over my car with a towel the next morning anyway, only takes a minute and can't hurt:2thumbs:

By rebuff they mean to take a mf towel and just wipe down the car 12 hours after applying and removing the superwax. It's to remove any hazing that occurred during the curing process that may work its way to the surface. I put 1 full circle of wax around the pad and spread it thin, one panel at a time. after the first panel i do 1/2 to 3/4 of a circle

So I finally got a chance to use my Machine Superwax on my daily driver on Thursday. Since then we've had rain and while driving the water literally fell off my car. There were absolutely zero waterspots after the rain had dried, and the surface is so incredibly smooth

That's what I do, and I also tape off moldings because they can stain easily if SHR gets onto them. I use Scotch 233+ tape, not the blue one: which you can buy from 3M's website for like $3 a roll. I figure the green tape is better for cars because it's the same tape pinstripers use (only wider of course)

these will be a true asset. whenever i buy something online that i've never seen in person it helps a great deal to see an actual photo of the product instead of just the generic promo image

I think I'm gonna have to use up all the buttery wax I have left asap!!

snow? what's snow? man I've waited so long to be able to say that

morning all...finally....... vette weather! :banana::banana:

there should be a thin black plastic disc-like washer already on the yellow backing plate, around the threaded part that screws into the PC7424: Your PC should have come with a smaller, thicker, grey rubber washer: Put this washer on the backing plate as well before screwing it into the polisher. Thinking like a sandwich, it would go: backing plate, black washer, grey washer, pc, with the screw part being the frilly toothpick that holds everything together.

I have one of Adam's old microfiber towels (white with black stitching) that I use solely for glass, and it doesn't shed at all.

are they just surface spots that won't come off, or is the clearcoat/paint actually physically damaged?

are there any original towels left in the warehouse that could possibly be offered in a closeout sale similar to the Gen1 pads?

Here's a few from September And yes, I'm that ocd that the logos on my centercaps are facing the same direction

You can certainly wash again after claying, or you can leave the lubricant on the car and go directly over it with the swirl/haze remover and/or polish. the only time that removing residue is absolutely necessary is after polish and before wax. you want to make sure the surface is clean before laying down wax

I used the metal polish on the faucets in the kitchen and bathrooms

well every one of my orders from now on will include one of these

" Actual sticker may vary." Are there different variations?

probably, but it is stronger so you may want to dilute with water accordingly depending on what you're cleaning.

Will the swirl and haze remover do anything for swirls on glass? Would it depend on the type of glass (windshield vs other)?