GerryC

I've done this to someone before, but they deserved it for nearly running me off the road on a highway entrance ramp. Also, he was in a convertible, so his situation was undoubtedly much worse than your friend's. If the truck has been recently waxed, a wash or detail spray should remove the residue. If he uses any other method (clay, APC, polish) just make sure he re-waxes that area afterwards.

the heat from your hands acts like a catalyst, which allows the paste to liquify quicker, so you are able to spread it easier. your hands won't absorb the wax like a foam applicator will, so you don't have any wax wasted, stuck inside the applicator. that, and some people like to get real personal with their cars.

Nope, I use my 5" counterweight (the one that came attached to the pc) with both the large and small pads without a problem.

i've never had adams clay 'fall apart', other brands yes. if you still have the bar can you take a picture? if not, can you describe 'falling apart'? was it shredding, thinning out, etc?

you could just wax after claying to keep the paint protected, because when you start the next time with polishing, the polish will remove the wax anyway

I wash my glass towels the same way I wash all my other microfiber, but I wash them separately from my other microfiber. Cold water, little bit of woolite, by hand in a small bucket that I use just for washing my mf towels

MSW is a great base of protection for daily drivers, especially ones that look like this during winter:

I put a coat of MSW on my DD yesterday in preparation for winter. Hopefully we'll have one more day of good enough weather to put on a second coat.

Which ones did they come back with? I have a couple of the clear ones and I prefer the way they mist better, haven't had them fall apart though. I just keep them for UCS, DS, Glass Cleaner, and WCW, the products I need sprayed the finest.

I always wipe with a non-fancy towel after using UCS. To minimize the running lines, keep the bottle moving as you spray. Don't hold it in one spot, spray, move it to a new spot, spray, etc. Spray as you move like in a sweeping motion. Think of it like painting a car.

I've never tried it but quite a few people I know have heard that it does.

I collect old US coins and paper money, the oldest coin I have is a penny from 1850. back then they made pennies larger than today's quarters (far right column of coins, second one down)

the only thing you should wash with your adam's microfiber towels are your other adam's microfiber towels. Do what Mick said, some APC, and rinse with water

Right, if your car is garaged you don't need the MSW and you can go with a strictly carnauba wax treatment for it. Revive has no abrasives, it can't remove scratches. So if you have minor swirls, then you would need to use FMP to remove them. Some people like to follow FMP with Revive, since Revive is a cleaning polish, to ensure the surface is prepared for wax. If you already have SHR and Revive you can mix the two on the same pad to get sort of the same effect as FMP. The Revive will essentially 'water down' the SHR and make it less abrasive. FMP is the only Adam's product I don't own, because I do that when I need a less abrasive correcting polish.

Wax is really the only category of Adam's products in which there is more than one product for the same purpose. All other of Adam's products are uniquely important (though not all of the products may be necessary for everybody). If you have already ordered the Americana wax, then there's really no need to also get the Buttery Wax. They are both Carnauba waxes, though one is paste and one is liquid. Americana lasts longer and gives a deeper wet look, that's what a paste has over a liquid. The Machine Superwax is more of a polymer sealant and is best used for ungaraged cars that see the elements of nature 24/7 (especially if you live somewhere that encounters all four seasons). It lasts about 6 months, and is great as a base of superior protection which you can then top with a coat or two of Americana to enhance the durability and shine. As for the other products, like I said, they are all uniquely important, and you can't really rate them against each other. The only other products I can think of are the Fine Machine Polish and Revive Polish. FMP is a mild correcting polish and is used after Swirl&Haze Remover to fix microdamage caused when using the SHR, this damage is really only apparent on dark cars. Revive is a cleaning polish and has no abrasives. Which one you get depends on your car and your needs. If there are any other products that you need comparing that I may have overlooked just ask.

dude, sick hood...engine pics NOW

In that case, you should be golden. Take some pictures and post them when you get a chance

By your description it sounds like you did everything right. What color is your car? Sometimes the oils that come up can be very minimal (depends on multiple variables including the amount of product used) and it is difficult to see them on lighter colored cars. It won't hurt to give it a quick wipe down anyway.

Spray liberally with APC, rub together to break loose the polish, and hose off with water. I use the spray attachment on my sink, wring them out and just sit them out to dry

Isn't their tagline "SPF40 for your stuff" ?

:iagree:

Never used it, but I remember at Carlisle, anyone who asked Adam about protecting fabric or convertible tops, that is the product he recommended until he comes out with his own

How long ago did you put the superwax on? I'm going to put a few coats on my DD sometime next week No Rich, I won't post the snow picture again

But your point was wrong and we were merely correcting you. This forum is a place of learning, that's why so many people are here, because they want to learn better ways to take care of their vehicle. If you constantly disagree with people who have a lot of experience with detailing and Adam's Polishes, then you obviously do not want to learn that badly.

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