GerryC

A dealership's worst nightmare is a customer who knows what they're talking about.

Can you take an updated pic so we can see what it looks like after you polished?

The clearance swabs are definitely a steal. A 4" handle is long enough for most situations, and the only other difference really is the shape of the tip. I just grabbed some and can't wait to try them out on my air vents - up until now I've been using regular cotton swabs and swearing a lot.

I would wash the paint-only towels like your single/double softs and WW towels separate from the dirty job ones like metal polish, utility, etc.

The CG gallon jugs may be taller but I believe they are also narrower. I just measured out 128 ounces of water and filled up one of my empty Adam's gallons, and needed to add an additional 6 ounces before the level was even with one of my unopened gallons.

But seriously, do what Chris suggested and clean it before you go. If they see you are particular about the condition of the car they may be more inclined to treat it better. Also, just thinking out loud here, but maybe get some of that really wide blue painters tape and mask off the area that they will predominantly have their hands on?

VRT was the first Adam's product that I ever used, and I was blown away with the ease of use and the results. Once it was reformulated to be water repellent that was just the icing on the cake.

Dealer touching your paint?

If there is an Adam's dealer nearby, you can always stop in and ask for a handful of cards to pass out at shows, as I'm sure those businesses have cards. This way you help promote Adam's and your local dealer. Or Many times at a show I will bring my various 4oz bottles for the sole purpose of letting others borrow them. If they don't bring them back, so what, it's just a small bottle... but most of them will come back and say "where can I buy more of this stuff??"

Better now?

If they're completely unused you could post them in the Garage Sale forum. If I'm not mistaken, the only things prohibited there are used products and outdated chemicals. Or to be on the safe side you can send them to me if you were just gonna trash 'em

Not sure about the rotors, but Adam says GWC would be safe to use. For delicate wheel cleaning, or if the wheels just aren't that dirty enough to justify using a cleaner, I use Car Shampoo diluted with water and a foaming sprayer. Always clean the wheels when they are cool to the touch.

AMEN TO THAT. I did the honeycomb grills with SVRT once. ONCE.

That sounds like an absolute must-do

Carlisle GM Nationals? Heat it up with a hair dryer/heat gun, use a plastic razor blade to scrape it off (stupid cheap, like five bucks for a 25 pack on ebay), 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner to dissolve the glue left behind, and a towel that you don't care about. Constantly flip the towel to a fresh side, as the glue will now be in the fibers and you don't want to wipe it back onto the window. Use the cleaner until you are certain no glue is left on the window, then go over the area with GC or WW with a clean towel

Few squirts of APC, agitate with your fingers, then rinse with clean water. Some people prefer to use a drop of Dawn dish soap instead since it cuts through the wax better. Wring it out and let it dry.

Wow, that is awesome. When I was on my ancestry crusade last year I was only able to trace back to the 1860's (and found out that because of someone's sloppy handwriting at Ellis Island, my last name is actually spelled wrong). Going back to the 1500's is mighty impressive. Did you use anything besides ancestry.com and records from overseas relatives? I still want to go back at least one more generation but I hit a wall. So cool that he was involved with an attempt on Hitler's life. Just reading your own name in an article like that, about something decades or even centuries old, man, what a feeling that must be.

A dark version of the skin has been considered - there's just a lot going on behind the scenes at the moment. Is there any text in particular that you (or anyone else reading this) are consistently finding difficult to read? I will make them darker.

With proper lighting you shouldn't have too much trouble, but like Aaron said, worst case you just have to look at an angle almost parallel to the panel to see what the polish looks like.

The marks on the white pad look congruent with the design of the grit guard. My pads get marks in them like that sitting in my dish drainer after cleaning them. They should go away after a while.

The VIP section is only for people who actually clean their cars

Looks like something out of Minecraft.. As I posted on Facebook, Corrugated Carl

Maybe a solution of one part GC and two or three parts H2O ? Anyway you'll definitely have to reapply Glass Sealant to the windshield more often than the rest of the car. I do all my glass in March/April and then again in October. The windshield gets at least one other coating in the middle of summer.

When I'm going to lay down a sealant it's because I've just finished polishing, so the machine is already out, and I just swap the pads and lay down MSS. It's pretty effortless, and with MSS and the machine you will cover a much larger area in the same amount of time you would using QS by hand. I reserve QS for wheels, door jambs, and to use as a bug barrier before long road trips. Excellent stuff in its own right.

Yeah...after a wax job, the applicator can be packed with residue (try squeezing the applicator as you clean it by hand, a load of gunk will come out) - not stuff you want clogging up a machine that costs hundreds of dollars. I do all my towels and apps by hand.