GerryC

Nice ride...and nice HAT. GO BRUINS.

Hanging on to the red plugs is a great idea. Put them in your pour/squirt bottles that aren't used that often, like MSS, as they create an airtight seal which helps preserves the product. I have a few older bottles of product that are going on 4 years and still perform like new. Another thing I like to do, especially during the winter, is periodically shake up some of the products that tend to separate out.

Wow, your truck looks like it has 1/10th the mileage that it actually has

Was it Leather Conditioner? That stuff foams up like a son-of-a when trying to clean out the applicator. Takes me twice as long to rinse the app clean, but I don't mind as I save pad/towel laundry for when I have nothing else to do.

I read on G8Board that GM is limiting these to 5,000 units and they're all going to be made-to-order

Some people have used a butter knife to scrape some Americana and spread it on the red or black machine pad, but you end up wasting a LOT of product that way and Americana isn't something you'd want to waste.

This is basically what the second-gen G8 would have looked like, save for the Hyundai-inspired nose. I think it looks too plain, and am still on the fence about the "alien eyes" tail lights - in some shots they look mean, and in others they look stupid. The G8 GXP retailed four years ago for almost five grand less...had the same amount of power......and came with a manual transmission. Hopefully some place will make custom Pontiac-styled clips like they did with turning the new Camaro into a Firebird.

Did a full correction on the vette 4 years ago. Stays in a garage, never gets dirty or wet. Haven't put water on it since. The paint still looks 95% the way it did when I finished polishing. G8 stays outside 24/7. Sees all sorts of elements all year round. Washed weekly during the warm months. Did a full correction 3 years ago, and every spring I just go over it once with FMP and the white pad. Paint is about 90%. Basically, once you do a full correction, it's how you maintain the car which will determine when you need to break out the machine again. A good coat of sealant or wax coupled with following proper washing and dusting techniques will prolong the condition of your finish.

Hmm I don't drink beer so I didn't take the I.P.A. acronym into consideration when adding it to the list Scotch FTW *runs*

I've had splotches after washing, but they always came off effortlessly during the rinse or the towel-dry, and it was only if the suds had dried. Weird. IPA wipedown and then re-seal?

Always wondered why a different plastic was used for the DWC bottles...I figured it might have had something to do with the chemical itself not playing well with the clear plastic, but glad to see that is not the case. Actively considering and implementing changes based on customer input is what sets this group apart from many other companies, and not just limited to the car care industry.

I kept the car wet after washing, a. to help dilute DWC, and b. because it's going to get wet again anyway when you rinse the DWC off. Just work in sections (1 or 2 panels at a time) so it doesn't have a chance to dry. Make sure you rinse it off thoroughly before moving on to another section.

I think the problem here is expecting a clear coat polish to remove paint overspray in the first place. Claying removes overspray (which is done before polishing anyway), polishing removes defects. Overspray is not a defect, it's a foreign contaminant. The fact that SSR doesn't remove paint overspray has no bearing on it's clear coat cutting ability. There's no reason why the OP shouldn't be able to get results with SSR/SHR/FMP. Not saying perfect results because it's hard to tell the severity without seeing them first-hand, but to completely dismiss a product simply for not being able to do what it is not even marketed for is rather silly.

Sprayed directly onto the car after washing and sheet-rinsing. Dwelled for about 3-4 minutes, rinsed clean off. Noticeably easier claying and less contaminants in the clay - clay bar lasted longer.

I cringed more at this than during tonight's Game of Thrones Take Matt's advice in post #4

It looks okay to me...where was it stored? When was the last time you used it? Mine has looked like that before and once I agitated it with the applicator it looked like new again.

WD-40?

+1 I like to reuse whatever packing material I can from anything that I have shipped. Saves you from having to buy boxes and stuff every time you have to ship something yourself. I use one of my larger Adam's boxes as a "laundry bin" for dirty pads and towels

I've had pour caps split along the threads like that too, but only because I overtightened them. Call up and they will send you a replacement I've also had a WW towel edging come undone, because I used to "snap" them when they were dry to fluff them back up, and I did it too violently one time. They may also start to unravel if you catch the towel on a badge or sharp corner of the car and it pulls some of the thread. My old drying towel had quite a few loops handing out of it. Like others have said it doesn't affect the performance of the towel.

In that case a good rule of thumb would be condition all the soft leather like seats and door panels (where you want the material to absorb the product), and use the TID on the dashboard and hard plastic pieces that only need a coating.

That sounds about right. Move the polisher slowly over the surface (about one foot every 3-5 seconds), and overlap your strokes by about half. Give it another shot tomorrow and take your time.

Looks like new, good job! I have yet to try TID as my G8 roo hide drinks up LC like no other, but it's holding the conditioner well now so I will be maintaining it with TID for the rest of the summer. Looking forward to seeing the results of the anti-static property as well.

How much experience would you say you have using the porter cable? You may just need to adjust your technique and you can get the results you are after. Dylan offers some very sound advice in this video:

Have you considered the 4" Focus Pad kit?