GerryC

Check your order history page, the tracking number might be there. I didn't get a tracking email with my last order but I was able to find the number there anyway.

Leaving the DS on the car saves you time and a clean towel, as opposed to wiping it all off and then going ahead and polishing and wiping anyway. I've polished both with and without removing the DS residue (it had dried), never really saw a difference, and it just depends on what the situation calls for. If there was substantial liquid remaining on the surface I'd probably mop some of it up with a WW towel.

When I replied earlier I was on my phone and couldn't see the full size photo. Now that I can, I see there are chips of your own paint missing among the paint transfer. In that case I would attempt to clean this up by hand before even thinking about a machine.

A good indicator is when you wash the car. My windows basically dry themselves when I use the pooling rinse or "sheeting" method. Keep in mind the sealant on the windshield will degrade faster than the rest, due to the action from the wipers, using wiper fluid, etc. I do my windows twice a year (say, april and october) and the windshield will get an extra one or two applications to maintain the protection (april, july, october, and weather permitting, january)

If the top isn't heavily stained, mix some car shampoo with water in a bottle with a foaming sprayer, and a soft brush like Adam's interior brush. If it is a light color top and has stains you can spot treat them with CUC first, just test an inconspicuous area for color fastness before doing the whole thing. http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detailing_Video_Vol_8_Chapter_04_2_Bucket_Car_Wash.aspx

The pads are thick and flexible enough to get in there if you just apply more pressure, or go in at a SLIGHT angle. Are you using the focus pads on a drill or machine?

Rubbing alcohol. You can also find plastic razor blades that won't scratch your glass.

Nice turnaround. Dirty interiors are probably my least favorite thing to deal with

Yes and no. Different formula, same results. IMO IOS is a bit shinier and not as durable as SVRT through weather/washing.

Like Tom said, sealants have to bond to bare paint. The process of sealant, glaze, wax that you said is correct. Glaze will not hurt the sealant later if it is on top of it. If it is underneath, once the glaze breaks down, the sealant has nothing left to adhere to. The longevity of your protection is determined by the bottom-most layer. Just know that if you are using MSS, you should wait 12 hours after removing the residue before putting down the glaze/wax. MSS tends to outgas extra residue during this time. Simply come back over the car with a clean towel and a mist of DS or WW before laying down glaze/wax. This combo will give you 6 months of protection and the dripping wet shine.

Major difference

There are Cyclo videos, but they won't be published until the machine and the 4" microfiber pads are available for sale, probably by the end of the month. Your warranty shouldn't be affected. Adam's still supports the machine, they just cannot sell them since they are now made in China.

Ew, they're all Chicago Blackhawk colors Lookin' good!

I am 6'1" and fit in the back seat of my G8 quite comfortably even with the front seats moved all the way back. I agree they should have just made an SS Impala. Chevy looks like they're beginning to follow the Germans when it comes to model redundancy now.

What's your company's policy on physical assault? Find out, then test the limit. I HATE people who think it's funny or clever to write on your car like that. "What?? It's dirty, you were gonna clean it anyway." They have no idea that they may as well have used sand paper instead of their finger. Ignorant people should leave things that they don't understand alone, especially when it comes to someone else's property.

Weird. Don't think it turned, maybe the coloring got funky due to the heat, or it was a blooper batch and they're just trying to get rid of it. I remember at Corvettes @ Carlisle last year we had about a dozen bottles of SHR that were slightly off-color - still worked exactly as it should, but the cosmetic difference warranted a discount.

Picture? Maybe you should ask Thompson about it.. No way it should have turned. I'm surprised they even put it in the box, free or not, if it looked like that.

Not available quite yet, probably towards the end of the month

Your coat of sealant will last around 6 months, and the coat of wax on top of it should last 2-3. Give or take depending on storage/driving conditions. You won't need to add another coat the wax until at least a month down the road, and remember, less is more. If you have too many coats you can actually start to cloud up the look of the finish. If you live where it snows, you may want to consider stripping the protection towards the end of the year and applying fresh sealant/wax before the winter starts, to keep your nicely polished paint protected from the harsh sand/salt combos on the roads. You will only need to re-polish when you start seeing swirls that you cannot live with. If you follow proper washing techniques you shouldn't have to do any more than just a single pass with the PFP next year. Make sure you check out the videos on washing drying and maintaining and if you have any more questions feel free to ask away

Night and day difference. And just look at the beads on that roof.

As far as I know there wasn't a lot of green pads or old product left, as they stopped being produced/stocked once the wheels were in motion for the new system. What little there may be left could end up on clearance, or check with your local dealer as I'm sure they would still have some.

It's amazing the difference sealing your glass makes It's been raining all day, and twice already I caught myself just staring outside watching the water fall off the windows of my car. http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-498-adams-glass-sealant.aspx

Same thing with the reformulated VRT right? I still had half a gallon of the old stuff. It still worked, obviously, so I used it up on tires and weatherstrip - any rubber that was porous and could absorb the product. In that time, I only used the new stuff on hard plastic trim or anywhere where it was more of a "coating" and I absolutely needed the water repellent feature. Needless to say the old stuff was still able to serve its purpose. Unless there are secret self-destruct chips in all the old bottles which turn everything to water once they detect new product releases

Happened to me too, already let Dylan know about it.