GerryC

Whatever you do, don't put it in the butter drawer or you might end up with some expensive breakfast one morning

Also good if your brush has dandruff My Boar's Hair brush smelled a little bit when after it gets covered with cleaners and dirt enough it fades away. Like others have said give the brush a good cleaning with APC or Car Wash Soap (or a mix of both!) and it should reduce the smell significantly

Excellent work Can't wait to try these out for myself

Try the proper sequence and you should get better results. Feel free to ask any more questions and don't forget to post some photos

You should always step down the aggressiveness when polishing. If you are using SSR and SHR, SSR is more aggressive and should be used first, followed by SHR, and then FMP. Make a line either on your backing plate or on the top of your pads so you can see how fast they are rotating. This is helpful in determining how much pressure you are applying while you work. The pads should be rotating once every 5-6 seconds. Make sure you move slowly over the panel so the polish and pad can do its job. Check out for proper technique. What kind of vehicle are you working on?

I don't have any of these towels so I can't say with 100% certainty, but they look like a similar towel design to Adam's old blue super plush towels from years ago, which I believe were 16" x 24", but they could also be square 16x16

Dat wagon.

As much as you want/need to get the results your looking for.. There isn't a set amount to use, especially since your clear coat and the severity of your scratches is different than everyone else's. The only time you need to apply a proper amount of pressure is when using a machine because it can affect the rotation and movement of the pad.

You should not seal or wax fresh paint until it has fully cured. Normally it takes about 60 days, 90 seems a bit much, but the paint shop knows more about their specific paint/method than anyone, so I would trust them on the time. Just maintain the car with WW or DS until it is safe to seal and wax.

That wasn't directed towards you in particular, it was just in general as I have seen linting on my own windshields where the fibers appeared to be wrapped around a raised speck of junk that was still stuck on the glass. My doublesofts shed a bunch when they were brand new (shook them indoors and saw fibers fly out). I washed them and the linting stopped. Just offering suggestions based on my own experiences. Obviously there is no solution for manufacturing defects.

As always feel free to check with your local dealer to see if they have any in stock

One aspect that will accelerate linting is using them on paint or glass that hasn't been properly clayed. The contaminants will actually grab and pull fibers from ANY towels, not just Adam's. If you have linting and the loose fibers appear to be "stuck" onto your surface, this is likely the case. In my experience, it is more likely that newer towels will lint, as there is bound to be some residual fibers leftover from the manufacturing process. This concept exists in other forms of manufacturing, where cast-off particles are still present within the item and should be removed prior to first use. Washing brand new towels first will help alleviate this issue. For the record, I wash all of my towels by hand, in cool-to-warm water, in a clean bucket, with about a teaspoonful worth of Woolite and a capful of Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener. I fill up the bucket with water, add the Woolite, and agitate with my hand for about a minute. I dump out the dirty water, fill it up with clean water and add the Revitalizer, then let them soak for a while. Dump again, rinse, lightly wring out the excess water, and hang dry. Once completely dry I give them a good shake to fluff them back up and they are as good as new. I have many towels that have seen dozens of uses and washes and do not lint. Are there going to be some towels out there that will lint no matter what? Of course. A 0% failure rate is pretty much impossible with anything. Proper care and use will prolong the life of the towel, and you always have the Adam's guarantee if you run into trouble.

You wore an away team's jersey to an eagles game and survived? I always thought doing that was an urban legend

Wow, what a turnaround. It looks brand new again. Hope she keeps it this way!

^ do want

WOW

Rabbit mode just kicked in!

That indentation looks like the perfect spot for one of those floor-standing tiered modular shelving units. Tires on the bottom, Adam's products everywhere else

You can treat the entire car before wiping off to save yourself time. BG wipes off just as easy as BW IMO, no harm in letting it sit for a few extra minutes.

All users from Illinois are banned from the forum for the next two weeks. Still mad about the B's sweeping Sid the kid?

Are you going to be driving the car between clay and polish? Or will it be sitting in a garage the whole time? If you are going to drive it, put a coat of wax down after claying to protect the paint. Glaze will not protect it. The only downside to this is you'd have to strip the wax off next week before polishing, which can be done simply by adding some APC to your wash bucket. If it will sit in the garage, then you don't need to do anything except remove whatever light dust settles on it during the week with DS or WW and a MF towel

I've mixed the old forumla VRT with water to make a spray like Erik said, but I'm not sure how the new formula, being thicker and water-repellent, would react in that mixture.

I believe Dylan is referring to the width of each pass rather than the surface area (you can cover almost nine inches wide in one direction with the Cyclo whereas with the Flex/PC it is only about eight)

You're gonna LOVE that thing

You're fine. If you weren't going for 100% perfection then there is nothing to worry about, and I'm sure it already looks a lot better than it did before you started. No reason to have to start over.