GerryC

As Consuela would say herself, no...no...

The last car I did for someone was a red Corolla that had just come back from the body shop after accident repair. Holograms all over the hood. The owner of the car didn't have a clue about detailing, but he noticed the buffer trails immediately and knew they weren't supposed to be there. Now, if he could notice them on a red Toyota, I have no idea how the "judges" at the car show didn't notice them on a black F40. Mind-boggling.

If they are not that bad, Revive could get you back to perfect with minimal effort, even by hand. No harm in giving it a try!

Hourly rate > flat fee Every car is different in size and condition. $50 for an already decent Ford Focus interior is great, but $50 for a trashed Excursion is not. And saying "add x amount extra for large vehicles" is subjective. Hourly rate, time required depends on size and condition. Covers all the bases.

Testing

Accidentally put the old white SHR on a tire sponge once. A tip that many people do is write the acronym for the product around the "dome" of the bottle for quick and easy identification of similarly colored products.

All it did was clear out the stored sessions. Once everyone logs back in it shouldn't happen again

Is the towel actually stained/discolored? Can you describe "not clean" or maybe take a picture so we can help you out?

Feel free to ask if you have any other questions and be sure to check out Adam's instructional videos http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

Yes, claying will remove your wax coating. It's best to start with a bare surface anyway when you are going to clay, so you can more effectively remove the surface contaminants from your paint. Removing the wax during a "strip wash" is a good way to start. Simply mix a few ounces of APC into your regular wash bucket setup and wash the car as you normally would. After claying you can move on to polishing and waxing.

A lot of new topics about this exact thing have popped up lately. You'll get some good info in here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/24115-detailing-pricing-charging-too-much/

Since every vehicle and its condition is different, I don't have set prices for specific services. I charge $50 an hour, and tell the customer what I can do and how long it will take by simply pointing out things on their car. This way they can decide what they want done, so ultimately the total cost is on them and not me. One thing is important, do not undervalue your time. Once you do it cheap for someone, they (and anyone they tell) will expect it cheap and you won't be happy with that. Be firm, and make sure your own car is sparkling when they come by so they can see an example of your capabilities.

They were booing Gary Bettman for the lockout that cut the season in half.

Sounds like too much. Remember, hard plastic trim pieces are not going to absorb the product like tires or weatherstripping will, so pretty much all of the product will be sitting on top of the trim. Next time, simply go over the area with a clean MF towel after applying the SVRT to even it out and knock off any excess. Less is more!

Congrats!

Yes. I also have the non-xp version. It is basically the same machine, except the XP model can go up to 6800 opm (vs 6000) and has a longer cord.

I hear you, especially not being able to use a garage. It's a battle to be working against so many uncontrollable factors like daylight and the environment.. I waxed my G8 yesterday after a long cleaning session, started on the hood and worked my way back - got halfway done waxing and a bird bombed smack dab in the middle of the hood.

Everybody that he "met up" with or "got phone calls" from were the same two people each and every time he made any sort of reference about personal interaction with forum members, and at least one of the two were already acquaintances with him before joining the forum. He just wanted to make it seem as though he was going out of his way to help people who couldn't get help through the forum, and that these people were going out of their way to be saved by the paint correcting god he claimed to be.

If you laid the sealant down thin enough then you shouldn't need it, but for any spots that are stubborn, a light mist of DS on your MF towel will work perfectly fine

Yep

You are thinking about the next day wipe down. MSS has a tendency to outgas additional residue over 12 hours or so after being first applied, which needs to be wiped before layering anything else (wax or sealant) on top of it, otherwise you may see some cloudiness between the 2 layers. Also keep in mind Revive Polish will remove any wax or sealant you have on your paint, so if you are doing a treatment with Revive, do it before the sealant.

I have something similar on my front bumper, almost like a piece of dust was on there before it was sprayed. Just avoid claying directly over it.

Thanks for the writeup, glad you liked everything!

Mine is like that too, it is fine. The site images are illuminated and shot against a white background so the colors may appear a bit exaggerated online.

DWC is for really heavy metallic deposits, like if you have thick, caked on brake dust. It almost acts like a de-ironizer. Most people only need GWC. As long as you only clean the wheels when they are cool to the touch, rinse the wheel thoroughly, and don't allow the cleaner to dry on the surface, you should have no issues wither either.