GerryC

If the headliner is cloth, you can spot-treat the stain with CUC, then go over with the steamer. You actually might not even need the steamer after using Adam's CUC...depends on how bad the stain is.

I've experienced this too. I stopped doing it and now simply add an ounce or two of WW to my wash bucket AFTER creating my suds, and it makes the wash mitt glide noticeably slicker.

Smell of the original Americana was way better than the current IMO.

Welcome You do not want to put anything between a sealant and the paint. Sealants need to bond to the paint in order to maintain their durability (a coat of MSS lasts about 6 months). Otherwise, the life of the sealant will be subject to the life of whatever is underneath it, and glaze does not last long at all (it's more of a "beauty product"). You can certainly put the glaze on AFTER the sealant for that extra POP. Many people will do sealant, glaze, wax for the ultimate in protection & dripping wet shine. You can go with either the liquid Buttery Wax, or the APW. If you aren't sure which is for you, check out this post.

I'm still burning through my old stuff but getting close to the end. This part about the wax preservative has me a bit concerned, especially when used for claying. Adam's suggests leaving the clay residue on the finish and moving straight onto polishing (most often I will re-wash the car, or at the very least hose off the majority of the residue), but if the new DS has a "layering" or "preserving" property, would this interfere with the polishing process? Much like polishing waxed paint would gunk up the pad with wax? Same thing goes for using DS as a drying agent before moving on to clay. Just need some clarification before restocking, since we still have some of the old stuff by the gallon here at the dealer in CT. For the record, I've used the new formula but for wipedowns only on customer's cars. Slicker and easier to remove, but not enough to convince me to ditch "old reliable" just yet. Thanks

Any inner protrusion would interfere really. Maybe something like 4 little notches along where the sides meet the botom?

I was thinking about ways to prevent the wax pour from spinning in the container, since that is something many people have complained about. A faceted yet still somewhat round container, like an octagon. The shape would not only prevent the wax from spinning inside the jar, but the lid would be much easier to unscrew.Keep the round container, but have an interior protrusion (perhaps similar to the bottom fins on the grit guard) that would hold the wax in place. Obviously they could only be about 1/4" high off the bottom of the jar at most so not to interfere with the applicator. The only real inconvenience would be when the container gets down to its last 5 or 6 coats worth of wax left, but by then the wax has likely cracked into pieces anyway.Or a hybrid of both, round container, octagon inner walls.Anybody else have some ideas?

I sprayed it full strength on an already-wet car after washing (did not dry) so that kinda diluted it without messing with the bottle contents. Worked two panels at a time so the product wouldn't dry, let it change color, then hosed off thoroughly, re-foamed with straight shampoo/water left in my foam gun, rinsed again, then moved on to clay. Did the whole G8 and only used 1/3 of the bottle.

If I am going to clay, I won't even bother with drying the car completely. Knock off most of the water using the "sheeting" or "pooling rinse" and then just start claying. Saves DS, time, and your towel. Definitely clean out your hex applicators after each use, especially the polish/wax ones. Use some APC or Dawn dish soap and clean/rinse them thoroughly. If you let polish or wax dry in the pad, it will dust like crazy next time you go to use it.

Definitely move the polisher slower. You nailed the part with marking the pad and watching it spin, so just take your time moving back and forth, up and down, overlap each pass by about half, and the swirls should come out with ease. Do a test area like Roshan suggested. Once you figure out how to perfect that one spot, then replicate that technique over the rest of the car. Every paint finish is different, so use that test spot to "learn" that car's paint, and you'll avoid wasted time/energy later on.

I was gonna say trade it in. Remember, always start with the least aggressive method first.

Polishes can be used on top of each other which is why you will see people not remove the residue between polishes (if you use more than one), but you will always want to remove the polish residue before applying wax. Definitely clean out your applicators thoroughly after each use, otherwise the product left in the applicator (especially Americana) will dry and dust like crazy. Like people said, use APC or Dawn and be sure they rinse clean. The applicators last a long time with proper care. I would check that gallon of M's shampoo to make sure it won't strip off your wax coating the next time you wash the car. The good thing about Adam's shampoo is that it's pH neutral so it will not remove your wax. If you have never used a paste wax before, it is very different than a liquid. Rather than treating the entire car and letting it cure, Americana sets up pretty quick and is ready to remove within minutes. Because of this you will want to apply to one or two panels at a time, remove the residue, then move on to the next two panels. If left on for too long, Americana (or any paste wax really) will harden and become stubborn to remove without significant elbow grease. Apply it thin, take your time, and just enjoy it. Paste requires a little bit more time and attention, but the end results are worth it. A coat of Americana should last about 8 weeks (give or take, depending on the storage conditions for your vehicle) and the entire tub should last about 50 vehicles for the larger jar and about 30 for the smaller one.

Erik is right. Darker colors especially (or those with soft clear) may see some haziness when finishing with MF. It should clean up using a foam pad.

It's designed to attack metal particles. For bug guts, I would use WW, or if they are really bad, some APC diluted half with water.

The pigment might have been affected by high temps during shipping but the performance should be the same. Of course if for whatever reason you feel the faded product doesn't work as well as it should, just give Adam's a call.

I rarely use LIC on my own cars because they simply do not need it. I use LC on my seats and door panels where the actual thick hide leather is, and I use TID on my dashboard and all the hard plastic pieces. The only downside I have found is that the odor-eliminating properties of the TID seem to mute the leather smell of the conditioner. The anti-static is phenomenal though, especially on the dash. Once I started using TID I've noticed basically zero dust on my dashboard while driving.

The gloss finish I assume has clearcoat over it? In which case you'd treat it as you would your paint.

We just got through dealing with an actual case of this, and someone unaware could possibly interpret these posts as real (after all, this is the internet), so I don't see this topic ending so well. Maybe in the Lounge, but definitely not in the product feedback forum...moved

I would try the yellow/green focus pad on a drill and some PCP or SSR before jumping up to using steel wool. "Least aggressive method first" applies to pretty much everything.

Get the silver. if you don't like them, send them to me and I'll, uh, ship them back for you. Yeah.

Welcome fellow G8 owner Definitely watch the videos for tips on how to use all of your products, and of course you can always ask questions on the forum and there are tons of people who can help you out!

If you click on your username in the upper right corner of the forum (along the black bar), there will be a link in the drop-down menu called "Content I Follow" which will show you everything you are subscribed to.

Every paint finish and body shop is different, so there are too many variables to say for certain "this product can be used immediately" or "that product can be used after x number of days" The general rule of thumb is wait 60-90 days before sealing or waxing. Anything else is fine, AFAIK, since body shops will buff the paint immediately after it's dried anyway. You just can't lay down a barrier of wax/sealant until the paint has had the time to outgas. Personally, I just wouldn't touch it with anything except WW or DS. No point in polishing paint that you can't protect afterwards.

Is Sunlight a type of degreasing dish soap? I've never heard of it but did a quick google. if so, you can try that. Use a wet sponge or towel (like if you were washing dishes). If that works, then great. If not, any other all purpose cleaner like Simple Green will work (dilute as well) Diluting IPA depends on the strength of the alcohol. Most do 50/50, or 60/40 in favor of water. Only go this route if the other methods don't work. I would try the soap first, as the products that you think are smeared on the glass should not be too stubborn to remove.

Glass Cleaner alone won't help much in this situation because he contains no ammonia. Try some diluted APC or IPA to cut through the oily substance then follow it up with GC. If it's factory tinted glass you should be ok. If you have an aftermarket tint "film" that has been applied to one side of the glass, I wouldn't use anything too strong on that side.