GerryC

Personally I wouldn't, as it would be a waste of product. I have my own process which is somewhat similar to yours (depending on whether or not the car has been clayed in the past). I was just questioning the effects of the wax booster when the DS is used as instructed in Adam's official videos.

Solvent pop is basically tiny little bubbles in the clearcoat that have, well, popped. If the base coat of paint didn't dry before the clear was sprayed, this is what happens. Nothing you can do about it, as the holes are almost or all the way through the clear and as such cannot be polished out. Just focus on the swirl marks. If you like the way it looks outside, then you are good to go. You're the only one who is going to see your car in a garage with a halogen aimed at it.

Use the pad conditioning brush to break up any loose polish, give the face of the pad a few sprays with Microfiber Revitalizer, agitate, and wash with warm water - separate from all your other items, even your MF towels. Air dry, avoid fabric softener. More information in the first post here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23891-new-2-step-paint-correction-system-discussion/

Solvent pop?

RaggTopp makes a fabric protectant. It's the brand that Adam's suggests as the best while they are trying to formulate their own product.

Check out the info in this topic: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23815-canvas-top-cleaning

What polishes are you using?

Garaged, normally doesn't see rain, wax will suffice. Just put down two thin coats of Americana and you will be set.

You can check out the Local Community board to see what people in your region are up to.

Does he also use whiteout as touch-up paint? -______________-

After 4 months there probably isn't that much left on the car anyway (unless it's a sealant), so claying would work fine. If it was a fresh coat, I'd use clay as a last resort to remove it, as the wax could gunk up the claybar

Check out this save. Cookout yesterday at a friend's condo complex, took the vette. Neighbor kids (not invited) are playing near the car so my blood is already boiling. I went over and asked the parents to reel them in a bit, but of course that didn't work. Then the inevitable happened. One of the kids fell onto the bumper. Did he use his hands to break his fall? Nope. His water gun. My mind is bouncing back and forth between losing original paint and how I can get away with murder with so many witnesses. I showed the father what happened and his response was a combination of "it's only a car" and "you shouldn't have been parked there" - let's ignore the first part because I don't have that kind of time right now, but I was in a parking space. They are called parking spaces for a reason. Luckily the place where we were is also the home of an Adam's user, so I grabbed his cordless drill, a 4" Gen 3 (hex pattern) yellow focus pad, and a bottle of Adam's PCP. BAM. Before we all packed up to go to the fireworks display, we dumped all of our cookout trash into their bins as a sign of good faith. It's only garbage. Your kids shouldn't have been playing there.

The only 36ers I found convenient were the car wash shampoo (it's the only bottle that you aren't constantly picking up and putting down during a detail) and APC & GWC (I'm sitting on the ground doing wheels/tires when I use these). The rest were too bulky for my liking when moving around the rest of the car. Although the larger bottles were less prone to falling over if placed on uneven ground or they encountered a strong enough wind.

It's not compatible with the new forum. Have you tried using the mobile version on your phone?

Mix some APC / Simple Green into your regular wash bucket

Isn't that a G6? What's the difference?

I went to each manufacturer's website and found Cyclo: 6.5, Flex: 5.75, PC: 5.5. The specs you have sound like the shipping weights (i.e. packaging, etc included).

I wash all of my towels by hand, in warm-hot water with a capful of Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener. I like to separate my towels based on how dirty they are, and really, how dirty they should be - plush towels that remove wax and polish should never pick up any dirt since they are only used on an already clean car. Waffle weave towels will have light to moderate dirt while utility, metal, etc. will be filthy. I fill up a clean bucket with water, add the Revitalizer and use the hose sprayer on my sink to create some suds. Add the towels and agitate with my hand for a few minutes. I dump out the dirty water, fill it up with clean water and let them soak for a while. Dump again, rinse thoroughly (often twice more, all the suds must be gone), lightly wring out the excess water, and hang dry. Once completely dry I give them a good shake to fluff them back up and they are as good as new. I prefer washing by hand to not only avoid cross-contamination from my washing machine and dryer - mixing with other materials such as cotton, and using fabric softener, are huge NO-NO's when it comes to cleaning microfiber - but also because I wash the towels I've used pretty soon after I use them. I don't wait until I have a pile of dirty towels to the point where I need the capacity of a washer and dryer. I use a $3, 10-quart, made-in-usa Sterilite bucket. No pre-rinse cycles to clean out the washer, no worrying about fabric softener residue, no gallons upon gallons of water ran through the machine. If you are detailing on a larger scale and have dozens of towels to clean at once, then by all means the washing machine will be much more efficient. For the weekend warrior, in my opinion, it is overkill.

There have been a few different variations of standard sprayer over the years and they look almost identical, but the newer ones that atomize the product better have a rubberized trigger - easy way to tell them apart from the older ones if you are looking to save your good sprayers.

Those are the steps for the old forum. The new one is slightly different. I will update that topic.

Click "More Reply Options" and then under the big text box you should see the buttons for uploading files from your computer.

How quick is it flashing? The new two-step should have a lot longer work time than the old stuff. Are you working in direct sunlight? If the surface of the car is hot it will dry out the polish prematurely. You can try to help it along with another mist of DS, but it's best to work when the car is cool and out of the sun. If this is unavoidable, wait for an overcast day, or wait until later in the day when the sun isn't directly overhead.

If you are going to put towels and applicators inside a sealed container, you have to make sure they are 100% bone dry before doing so. That being said, I got a shallow rubbermaid-style tub from walmart for $4 to store all my in-use stuff, and tossed in a spare desiccant packet for good measure.

* Engine cleaning involves the use of chemicals and/or water in and around the engine compartment. While the utmost care will be taken to ensure no mechanical or electrical issues arise from this treatment, be aware it will be performed at the owner's discretion. Modern and American cars shouldn't have a problem, but foreign cars, especially around the dawn of computer technology (80's and early 90's) you should be very careful with water in the engine bay. Adam explains this way back in the volume 5 DVD:

Water probably rolled off. As long as it didn't look like THIS then you have nothing to worry about. Go test it, put some water in a cup and go pour it on the hood. See what it does.