GerryC

Or Scotch

Sheeting rinse + blow dry = barely any DS required during drying.

Here and here.

Hi Bob The pads, polishes, and process you'll need to use with the Porter Cable are demonstrated in the video below. If you can post some photos of the paint you are working on, we may be able to give you some additional help. Feel free to ask any other questions you have http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-738-adams-basic-foam-pad-machine-polishing-kit.aspx

Using too much product can clog up the pad and cause dusting and other things you've described, but since you used the other two products without any issues, it's hard to tell. How much SHR were you putting on the pad? If it starts to get clogged up or dusty, use a mist of DS to reactivate the solids still in the pad, it will help unclog the pad and cut down on the dusting.

BG on chrome will melt your face, throw a coat of that on after the sealant. For the hard to reach areas, do you have any of the detailing swabs? Or maybe take an older applicator and cut it up into something more workable for tight spaces.

Giggity

taken care of also tweaked the grey of the category headers a bit darker so it matches the grey of the search bar

If the stripes are above the clearcoat, like they are decals applied to the surface, then check out the video in this topic. All you need to do when waxing the car is use some quality masking tape to protect the edges of the stripes, so you don't get wax built up along the edge. If the stripes are painted on and underneath the clearcoat, simply treat it like the rest of your paint. I've never seen the red stripes on a Challenger before, they look really sharp on white

I agree. Also listen to what Gerry said. Next time dress your rubber and plastic with SVRT before waxing, so if you do get some wax on a piece of trim, it will be easier to remove

How's all that look now?

Personally I prefer to wash my towels by hand, but there is no harm in using your clothes washer. Just be sure to use liquid soap (if the towels are really dirty), wash with only other microfiber (so don't mix them in with your bath towels), and do not use fabric softener. Adam's has a Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener which is specifically formulated to care for your towels. I like to use a tiny bit of Woolite as well for the towels that get dirty (usually the WW or drying towels). I also like to hang dry mine just to be absolutely sure they do not come into contact with any residual fabric softener or foreign material from the dryer. My process is described in this post. Everybody has their own methods but all follow the same basic principles.

Not only are not all of those steps necessary, but some of them are out of order. Wash, clay, two-step polish, then either sealant or wax. Sealant must go directly onto bare paint (so the glaze, if used, would be after the sealant, not before). You can certainly add wax on top of that if you wish but it is not necessary. If your car is a garage queen, you can skip the sealant and just go with wax. If it's a daily driver, I would go with the sealant since it lasts longer and has more durable protection from the elements. If you are getting a dual action polisher like the porter cable 7424xp and want to get your black paint looking right, I recommend Adam's two-step polishing system as stated above. You can watch an instructional video about it (and all of Adam's products) on their YouTube channel, but below is the link to the video specifically about using the two-step polishes with the PC7424 As far as towels go, Adam's sells the softest, high-quality microfiber towels I have ever put my hands on, and with proper care they will last a long time.

We kept the default cutoff to 365 days due to the large size of the database. You can manually search by author name, and specify the date intervals in which you wish to search for their posts. Simply leaving the keyword box blank will give you all the results: http://www.adamsforums.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

Answers in red

At the very most you should only have to re-wash the car again. Unless you live next to railroad tracks, you shouldn't have to worry about re-claying after only 24 hours. Next time if you are going to be detailing a car and you are limited on time and don't have a garage: after washing the entire vehicle, work one panel at a time with clay/polish/wax. This way, the panels that you did get to detail are protected and worry-free, and the only unprotected areas are the ones you didn't get to touch yet.

If it isn't through to the base coat, the focus pads + drill + PCP should make it less noticeable in the mean time Where did this happen? Work? Public parking lot? Were there cameras?

Interlagos FTW

Oh crap, it's become sentient. RUN

Well then, there's one plugin that works properly

Dylan why do you always hit reply half a second before I do

MSS is a very substantial (thick) product and really the only way to ensure you get a thin, even coat of it is to use a machine. If you apply it by hand, you will end up with what look like ghost stripes all over your paint where the product is thicker. This especially is apparent on darker colors. If you want an easy to apply sealant for use by hand, go for the QS.

Put it on a low profile rolling cart and just spin it around. Or hire Lou Ferrigno.

Spray some APC on a utility towel and scrub. Then follow up with SVRT to condition and protect.

There you go, can't get much better than that.